Muva nje, ngama-posters okukhangisa kanye nezikrini ze-TV, abakhiqizi bezimonyozi bahlala nathi ukuze basitshele ukuthi imigqa nemisha yabo emisha ayinayo izingxenye eziyingozi: i-parabens, i-sulfates ne-silicones. Kodwa ingabe lezi zinto zingozi ngempela? Ake sihlolisise le nkinga.
I-Parabens
Umbuzo "Yini abayidla ngayo?" Ngokwemibono yama-parabens, kulungile ukubuza ngokoqobo: ngemuva kwakho konke, sincike kubo nsuku zonke. Futhi futhi siyazigeza, siphathwa futhi sisakaze ngokwethu. I-Parabens ingenye yezidakamizwa ezidume kakhulu ezithombeni, ezokudla nezimboni. Umsebenzi oyinhloko walezi zi-esters akukona ukunikeza isikhunta nezinambuzane ukuxazulula, kufaka phakathi ukhilimu wakho. Njengomthetho, ama-parabens kuphela abakwazanga ukukwenza, abakhiqizi abathanda ukuwahlanganisa nezinye izilondolozo, ngoba ngale ndlela ungakwazi ukwandisa ububanzi bama microorganisms okudingeka uvikele impahla yakho. Uma impilo entsha ingavali, usuku lokuphelelwa yisikhathi luyakhuliswa ngokuzenzakalelayo. Lona inzuzo yesibili ebalulekile yama-parabens. Ngokuqinisekile ngaphandle kwemithi yokuvikela, umkhiqizo ungasebenza izinsuku ezimbili kuya kwezintathu, futhi ngisho nangaleso sikhathi, ngaphansi kokushisa okulondoloziwe. Lezi yizo zonke, ama-parabens, ezondeza impilo yezindlela eziphumelelayo futhi zinikeze ithuba lokugcwalisa indlu yokugezela ngamatayipi ngaphambi kokuphela. Khona-ke kungani ilebula yamahhala kaParaben ivela ngokuphindaphindiwe emikhiqizo yobuhle? Okokuqala, kuyimfashini. Futhi okwesibili, ngisho nomlando wayo omfushane, owawuphela emashumini ambalwa nje kuphela, ukusakazwa kwakwazi ukuwazisa idumela labo. Kwakukhona ngonyaka ka-2004. Usosayensi waseBrithani, njengawo onke, akazange aphumule. Baphinde baqhuba ucwaningo olubonisa ukuthi ama-parabens anesakhiwo sokuqoqwa kwezicubu zesifuba. Emasampula omdlavuza wesifuba angama-18 kwangu-20, lawa ma-preservatives atholakale. Ucwaningo aluzange lubonise ukuthi lezi zinto zithuthukisa ukuthuthukiswa kwesifo, kodwa isilonda sasihlala, futhi ukushushiswa kwaqala kuma-parabens. Kwafika kude kakhulu ukuthi ngoDisemba 2010, iKomidi lezesayensi ye-EU Consumer Goods lathi: azikho izizathu ezanele zokukhuluma ngokulimala kwepropyl ne-butylporaben, kodwa ukuhlushwa kwabo kunoma imuphi umkhiqizo kufanele kunciphise kusuka ku-0.8 kuya ku-0.19%. Ngo-Mashi 2011, iDenmark yaba yizwe lokuqala lokuvimbela ukwengezwa kokubili kwalezi zinhlobo zemikhiqizo yabantwana abangaphansi kweminyaka engama-3 ubudala. Futhi cishe bonke abakhiqizi bama-deodorants kanye nabaphikisana nezidakamizwa abawafaki kulesi sakhiwo - hlola it futhi uma kwenzeka.
Izifundo ziyaqhubeka, futhi lapha kufanele unqume ukuthi ungobani ohlangothini lwaso. Uma ukhetha ikamu "Ngaphandle kwama-parabens," cabanga ukuthi ukuchitha imali ngezimonyo kuzoba nokuningi. Noma iya kubaphathi bemvelo yemikhiqizo yendabuko, ngoba manje imikhiqizo eminingi yenza imali eco-friendly-ukujabulisa amakhasimende aqaphelayo. Kodwa ngisho noma uthatha i-serum i-Paraben mahhala, akusho ukuthi kufanele ilahlwe ezinsukwini ezimbili, nje kuphela ama-parabens kuwo angase athathe indawo enye yokuvikela.
AmaSulfathi
Ama-sulfate ayinsalela ye-sulfuric acid. Zanezelwa ezithombeni njengeziciko zokuhlanza nokuziphuza kakade kusukela ngo-1940. Abakhiqizi babathande ngenxa yokukwazi ukunciphisa ukuphazamiseka kwamanzi noma ukuthi ihlaya lamakhemikhali, okwenza kube ngamanzi amaningi. Yingakho ama-sulphath enza ukuthi umkhiqizo uphuthumele kahle futhi ususe kahle ukungcola. Thola lawa usawoti emasimini, ama-gels eshahleni nawo wonke uhlobo lomyvalka. Futhi ngokuqinisekile uzothola endaweni yakho yokuhlanza impahla yokugcoba noma yokuwashayela amanzi - okumele uvumelane, kukuvumela ucabange.
Izingxabano eziyinhloko zazo zonke izingxabano yi-ladiuml sulfate SLS (sodium lauryl sulfate) ne-sodium laureth sulfate i-SLES (sodium laureth sulfate). Ama-sulfate engokwemvelo asekelwe ku-petroleum (nje lawa ma-SLS kanye nama-SLES) ayingozi ngesenzo esinobudlova epidermis. Phela, imishini yamafutha ifile, futhi efika esikhumbeni noma ingene ngaphakathi, ayiklanyelwe ezinkambisweni zomzimba, ngokulandelana, futhi isuswa emzimbeni kunzima. Ucwaningo oluthile lubonise ukuthi ukuqoqwa kwama-sulfate kungabangela umdlavuza, kodwa ikakhulukazi lawa usawoti uyingozi ezinganeni nasebancane, ngoba zingabangela ukulibaziseka ekuthuthukiseni umzimba. Ngokuqondene ne-cosmetic side of the matter, ama-sulphates ahlanza isikhumba nezinwele nge-oxidation futhi ashiya ifilimu enhle kunabo bonke, futhi abhubhise isakhiwo se-curls akho, angabangela ukukhwabanisa nokubala. Futhi, akekho ochwepheshe abaphika ukuthi ama-salts e-sulfuric acid akwandisa amathuba okuba nomzimba kwezinye izinto.
Naphezu kwazo zonke lezizinto ezesabekayo, akekho ocabanga ukuthi uvale umgwaqo we-sulfathi embonini yobuhle. Amazwe amaningi amane abeke umkhawulo ekugxileni kwabo - angabi ngaphezu kuka-1%, futhi izifundo ezizimele ziqinisekisa ukungabi nalutho kwalawo usawoti. Ekugcineni, amafomula amanje anikezela ithoni yezinto ezingenayo i-neutralizing and softening components ezinciphisa ukulimala kwama-sulfathi okungenani, futhi ungathinti izakhiwo eziwusizo.
Ukwenqaba izimonyo ze-SLS ne-SLES kunengqondo, uma unendaba nge planethi. Isibonelo, i-lauryl sulfate ye-sodium ibhekwa njengobuthi emanzini asemanzini, okusho ukuthi uma uya eshaweni, ugeza isisombululo saso ekujuleni kanye nejel - izinhlanzi zokudla okunjalo ngeke zijabule. Ngaphezu kwalokho, noma iziphi izimonyo ezine-sulfate zivivinywa ezilwaneni. Yebo, akuwona wonke amahlaya ahlambalaza onogwaja abampofu, kodwa ngenkathi amaswayi e-sulfuric acid asetshenziselwa izimonyo, izifundo ezinjalo zizoqhutshwa. Ukuze usule unembeza wakho, bheka ukubhala ngesimo sezindlebe eziwela.
Akulungele ukujwayela ukwenza izimonyo? Zama okungenani ugweme ukuthintana naye isikhathi eside: gcoba ikhanda lakhe - ungadonsi, ugeze imoto. Shiya esitokisini se-gel yakho oyintandokazi yokugeza, futhi, ngokwesibonelo, ukuguqulwa kwamazinyo ukuguqulwa. Enye indlela ukuhlola izilinganiso zemvelo ohlwini lwezithako: amafutha kakhukhunathi (ama-coco sulphates) kanye negxolo lomuthi wesobho.
Silicones
Ama-silicone atholakala ku-silicon, okungukuthi, ishlabathi, ngokupolymerization nezinqubo eziyinkimbinkimbi zamakhemikhali. Babize ingxenye engokwemvelo ngemuva kokuthi ulimi lungaphenduki. Kodwa ngisho noma kungekho lutho olulimazayo kuma-silicon ngokwabo, khona-ke inqubo yokukhiqiza kwabo ngokusobala ayihambi emvelweni okuhle.
Ezithombeni, ama-silicones aqala ukwengeza ngasekupheleni kwawo-1950: okokuqala kuphela ama-creams namafutha, kodwa ngokushesha nje lapho kuvela izinhlobo ezintsha, abathintekayo be-silicone, izimo zezinwele, nama-mousses for styling baba "abicah". Namuhla uzothola le ngxenye kuzo zonke izigaba zezimonyo.
Esikhathini sabo esigabeni sezimonyo zokuhlobisa, benza inguquko yangempela, okwenza izithunzi, izikhwama ze-tonal, ama-blush kanye ne-ezeliner ehlala isikhathi eside futhi ephepheni. Uma unomuzwa wokuthi umkhiqizo unomusa omncane, isakhiwo esisheshayo, uma ungashiyi umuzwa onamahloni esikhumbeni, cishe cishe uqukethe i-silicones. Ikakhulukazi lawa ma-agent ayabalulekile ekwenzeni i-tonalnikov ye-liquid: ama-silicones abenza ukuba abe namahloni ukuze baphathwe kangcono esikhumbeni. Kusho izinwele ezilondolozwe yi-amazing-component, ukushisa futhi "ukuguqula" ama-curls. Futhi lapha imibono ihlukaniswe: ezinye izinkampani ziyaqiniseka ukuthi lezi zinto kuphela ziyakwazi ukulungisa izinwele, futhi izitha zabo zikhuthaza enye ifomu ye-silicones ebusweni bayo, njengesikhumba esikhwameni, ifilimu engavumeli oksijeni nayo yonke ewusizo ukungena ngaphakathi.
Noma kunjalo izimali ezibhalwe nge-Silicone mahhala zithola ukuthandwa ngesinye isizathu - le nto ayithandi ngenxa yekhono lokuhlakulela i-bioaccumulate, okungukuthi, hhayi ukubola, kodwa ukuqoqa ngokwemvelo. Ama-Ecoactivists anxusa ukuyeka izimonyo ngalesi sigaba noma izakhi zalo, ama-siloxanes, nezinkampani zezimonyozi ezinemigomo yemvelo zithatha i-silicones ngamafutha anamanzi noma aqinile, ama-alcohols amaningi kanye nama-protein ase-hydrolyzed.