Ukuvikelwa kanye nempilo yesikhumba kubaluleke kakhulu igobolondo eliyinkimbinkimbi - igobolondo elikhethekile lemvelo elivikelayo, elakhiwa phezu kwesikhumba ngenxa yokuxuba okukhiqizwa yizigulane ezithintekayo, ukukhukhumeza nokuxiliswa kokuphila kwabo esikhumbeni samagciwane - i-epidermal staphylococci. Kodwa kuphazanyiswa ukuchayeka kwelanga, izimonyo, ukujuluka ngokweqile nokuvela kuzo zonke izinhlobo zokudla.
Alpha hydroxy acids.
I-asidi evamile kunazo zonke izimonyo i-alpha hydroxy acid group.
Leli qembu lihlanganisa izithelo ze-acid - ilamula, i-apula, i-tartaric, i-lactic ne-glycolic. Lawa ma-acids atholakala kuzimonyo eziningi nemikhiqizo. Ngokulinganisa okulinganayo ekubunjweni kwemikhiqizo yezimonyo futhi ngokusetshenziselwa kahle, bushelela isikhumba, kuphuculise, kuphuculise umphumela wokukhanya kwe-ultraviolet, kubambelele kahle ukuthungwa kwesikhumba futhi kwandise ukusebenza kweminye izithako eziqukethwe ukwakheka kwezithokozi.
Phezu kwesikhumba sonke isikhathi sakhiwa "iglue" - uhlobo lwezingqamuzana zamaseli afile e-epidermis. Ama-alpha hydroxy acids alinganisela kahle abhubhisa le "glue", okwenza isikhumba sibe silky futhi bushelelezi. Ngenxa yalokho, izinhlayiya zesikhumba ezifile zisuswe phezulu, zivumela izimonyo ukuba zingene ezinhlakeni ezijulile zesikhumba, okwenza ngcono ukusebenza kwayo. Uma isikhumba singalingani, sibuhlungu futhi sibukeka singahlali, ukusetshenziswa kwezimonyo nge-alpha hydroxy acid kuzokunikeza umphumela omuhle.
Naphezu kokuba isakhiwo samangqamuzana esifanayo sikhona kuwo wonke ama-alpha hydroxy acids, ahluke ezindaweni kanye nokusebenza komphumela ezinkingeni ezihlukahlukene zesikhumba. Ku-alpha hydroxy acids, okuvame kakhulu yi-glycolic, citric, malic ne-lactic acids okukhulunywe ngenhla.
- I-Glycolic acid.
Okuvamile phakathi kwe-alpha hydroxy acids yi-glycolic acid. Ikhiqizwa kusuka ushukela noma etholakala ngokuhlakanipha, ngokuqala. Iphumelela kakhulu ngenxa yobukhulu obuncane bama-molecule, okuvumela ukungena kalula kulesi sikhumba.
I-Glycolic acid ihlanza kahle isikhumba samangqamuzana afile, isiza ukuqeda imincintiswano encane kanye nama-acne, isebenza ngokujwayelekile ngomzimba wezinhlayiya ezisabekayo. Enye yezinzuzo eziyinhloko zaleli asidi yikhono layo lokugcizelela umbala wesikhumba, ukukhanyisa izindawo ezihlukahlukene ze-pigment, ukuphucula isikhumba, futhi, okwenza kube uhlobo olushukumisayo, ukwandisa ukusebenza kwezinye izithako ezenza izimonyo. Kucatshangwa ukuthi i-glycolic acid, engena ngaphakathi emdemeni, ivuselela ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen.
- Citric acid.
I-asidi ye-citric iyinhlangano enamandla kakhulu yokulwa ne-antioxidant, ukuze, njenge-glycolic acid, isize ukukhiqiza i-collagen kwisendlalelo se-dermis. Ngaphezu kwalokho, le asidi ithatha inqubo yokuguga yesikhumba, isuse amabala we-pigment. I-asidi ye-citric itholakala ngobuningi bezithelo ze-citrus.
- I-Lactic acid.
Ukuze unciphise isikhumba esinzima, esikhudlwana, ama-dermatologists avame ukusebenzisa i-lactic acid equkethe ubisi, enekhono eliphumelelayo lokunciphisa nokuphucula isikhumba. I-lactic acid igcina izinga lokuswakama esikhumbeni, isusa izinhlayiya zesikhumba ezifile ebusweni bayo futhi kwandisa ukusebenza kwezinye izithako eziqukethe ukwakheka kwezimonyo.
- Apple Acid.
I-Apple acid itholakala kumagilebhisi aluhlaza kanye nama-apula. Ngenxa yikhono layo lokukhulisa ukugeleza kwe-oksijini kuma-tissue, ngokuvamile kuvame ukusetshenziswa ekwelapheni kwezifo ezifana ne-fibromyalgia. I-Apple acid isetshenziswa ekukhiqizeni izimonyo zokwelapha.
Inhlanganisela elungile ye-acid-base base balance of the isikhumba kanye nokuba khona kwama-acids e-agent yezimonyo yinto esemqoka ethinta ukuphumelela kwemiphumela yezimonyo esikhumbeni. Uma usebenzisa izimonyo ngendlela efanele, i-alpha hydroxy acids ewusizo esikhumbeni ngeke idale ukucasuka futhi ngeke iholele ekushiseni.
Ama-amino acids.
I-Peptides iyinhlobo yeketheni, eyakhelwe amino acid - izitini eziphilayo zomzimba. Lolu hlobo luqukethe inani elincane lama-amino acids abanjwe ndawonye, ngenxa yezibopho ze-peptide.
Uma uneminyaka yobudala, isikhumba silahlekelwa ukuqina kwezinto zangaphambili nokuqina. Lokhu kungenxa yokuncipha komsebenzi wamaseli akhethekile akhiqiza i-collagen ne-elastin - okuthiwa i-fibroblasts. Ngemuva kweminyaka engama-40, kunenani elikhulayo lemibimbi, njengoba unyaka ngamunye okuqukethwe kwe-collagen kunciphise ngo-1%. Ama-amino acids angasiza ukugcina ukuqina nokubusha kwesikhumba, okukhuthaza ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen kanye ne-elastin ngama-fibroblasts, okwenza kube lula nakakhulu.
Ama-amino acids afanele kunoma yisiphi isikhumba, ngoba angathinti ibhalansi ye-acid-base yemvelo, ungacasuli noma usule isikhumba. Izinkinga eziningi zesikhumba zixazululwa ngokusebenzisa izimonyo zokuguga, eziqukethe amino acid ekubunjweni kwayo.
Amanye ama-acids ewusizo.
- I-Alpha-lipoic acid iyanciphisa inqubo yokuguga, ingene emigqeni ejulile yesikhumba, isuse amangqamuzana e-cytokine abhubhisayo futhi abonakalisayo. I-Alpha-lipoic acid iqubuthe ngamanzi namafutha, i-antioxidant ephumelelayo.
- I-salicylic acid isetshenziselwa ukwelashwa kwe-acne nokukhishwa kwe-isikhumba esomile.
- I-Vitamin C, ngokuba i-antioxidant, njenge-ascorbic acid inomphumela wokukhanyisa isikhumba.
- Amakhemikhali e-Ellagiki emikhiqizo yezimonyozi ayinciphisa ukubonakala nokubunjwa kwamabala okudala, abe isithako semvelo yemvelo.
- I-linoleic acid ivuselela isikhumba esomile nesonakalisiwe. Iyingxenye ye-emulsions yokunyusa.
- I-Hyaluronic acid isetshenziselwa ukuyinkimbinkimbi enomsoco equkethe umswakama okuningi.
- Poly-hydroxy-acid: njengezinye i-hydroxy-group acids, iyasebenza kakhulu, kepha ithinta kancane isikhumba.