Umlando wamafutha aseRussia waqala, njengoba besho, "ngempilo". Amafutha angaphandle, angenalo inhlanhla ezweni lakubo, athuthele eRussia, lapho avela khona amandla kanye nokuyinhloko. Yebo, futhi "nezimpondo" zaseRashiya, ngokufunda ngempumelelo kwamanye amazwe noma ezisebenza njengabafundi, "zanikeza" izwe lawo amakhono azo: I-Perfumery yaseRussia - imikhiqizo enomusa yaba yinto ethandwa kakhulu. Ekupheleni kwe-XIX - ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-XX, amagama ka-A. Ferrein aphikisana ezweni lonke, futhi abahlinzeki beNkantolo Yomkhosi - A. Ostroumov, G. Brokar, A. Ralle no-A. Siu - babengaziwa kuphela eRussia, kodwa nakwamanye amazwe. Ngakho-ke, u-Alexander Ostroumov wadume ngokuqamba insipho ekhanda, futhi kamuva wavula ifoni yakhe yensimbi.
I- alfons Ralle edumile "ekhaleni" yanikeza amafutha aseRussia - imikhiqizo enombala hhayi kuphela eNkantolo Yomkhosi, kodwa nakuMbusi Wakhe we-Shah of Persia nokuPhakamisa kwaKhe uChernogorsky. I-firm yakhe yakwamukela uMbuso Wesifundazwe waseRussia izikhathi ezine - umklomelo omkhulu, okhishwe imikhiqizo ephezulu. Kwakusefektri "A. Ralle and Co "baqala njengomsizi we-laboratory u-Ernest Bo (umbhali weChanel odumile uNombolo 5). Ukube kwakungeyona yenguquko eyenza umthengisi onethalente ahambe, uzothatha isikhundla somqondisi we-firm, futhi awaziwa ukuthi ngabe ukulungiswa kwebhokisi le-"perfume emhlabeni". Enye ikhalenda ngaphambi kokuguquguquka kweRussia - uHeinrich Brokar. Leli "phunga" lefa elizalwa lizwe laseFrance. Lapho efika eRussia, wavula ibhizinisi lakhe futhi ekuqaleni waqala ukukhiqiza hhayi amafutha, kodwa isobho elimnandi. Abaningi emsebenzini wakhe, uHenry unomkakhe - uCharlotte. Nguye owamgqugquzela ukuwina ukunqoba: ukuthengisa isobho eshibhile "lesipho" (sobunjwa obungavamile) - okwenziwe ibhola kanye nezinhlamvu eziphrintiwe zezinhlamvu. Ukukhangisa kwe-Brokarovskaya sekube yi-byword. Ekuvuleni kwesinye sezinto izitolo zanikezwa abathengi "ukuthengiswa kwezimakethe: i-ruble kuphela eyayingakwazi ukuthenga isethi ephethe izinto eziyishumi, ezihlanganisa amafutha, i-cologne, i-lustrine, iviniga yangasese, i-vaseline, i-pouder, i-puff, i-sachet, i-lipstick, isobho. Injabulo yayiyinto yokuthi amaphoyisa kufanele avalwe esitolo.
Enye ukukhangiswa kwamafutha aseRussia - imikhiqizo enombala - i-cologne "Flower" - nayo yazamazama yonke iMoscow. Embukisweni Wezombusazwe Nezobuciko Zase-All-Russian "kwakhiwa umthombo" onobuhle, lapho umuntu angafaka khona ihekhi, iglavu noma ijaji leqhwa. Lo mbono waba yimpumelelo kakhulu kangangokuthi "i-Flower" yaba yi-cologne yokuqala yaseRussia. Lapho uMdumisi Omkhulu uMaria Aleksandrovna efika eMoscow ukuvakashelwa, u-Brokar wamtshela ngezimbali ze-wax - roses, iminduze yesigodi, ama-violets, ama-daffodils. Futhi imbali ngayinye yayibhekene nephunga elifanayo. U-Maria Aleksandrovna wamukelwa wanikeza lo mthengisi isihloko somhlinzeki wakhe wenkantolo.
I-"Brokar and Co" kubambisene kakhulu kangangokuthi amafutha aseRussia abizwa ngokuthi "i-Brokar Empire", futhi impepho yayo yathengiswa ngokudayiswa emazweni amaningi aseYurophu. Emibonisweni ehlukahlukene yamazwe ngamazwe, lo mboni wathola izindondo ezingu-14 zegolide, waba umthengisi iNkantolo Yombuso waseRussia kuphela, kodwa futhi neyendlu yasebukhosini yaseSpain, futhi ebhokisini lokubhalisa lenkampani kwakukhona izifanekiselo ezintathu zombuso, eqinisekisa izinga eliphezulu kakhulu lezimpahla.
Uma u-Brokar waqala njengensipho, u-Adolf Siu - njengomenzi wemigqa namaqebelengwane. Njengoba engenayo imali enhle kakhulu ebhizinisini le-confectionery, uSuu wanquma ukwenza impepho futhi waphumelela kuleli bhizinisi ukuthi waqala ukunikeza iNkantolo Yomkhosi hhayi kuphela ngamakhekhe akhe, kodwa ngamafutha. Impepho yakhe yayiyingxenye "yamakha ephakeme" futhi ayengatholakali kuwo wonke umuntu. Ngamafuphi, imboni yamafutha eRussia yangaphambi kokuguquka yaqina. Futhi ngonyaka ka-1917 waphula ...
Ama-actresses ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-XX mayelana nemimoya ka-A. Ostroumov, u-Ekaterina Geltser, umdanso we-Ballet dancer: "Uma ngidansa ku-" Corsair ", njalo ngiyisebenzisa i-Violette yamafutha ..." U-Elena Podolskaya, i-soloist opera: "Amafutha akho" Okuhle "angizungeza , ukuthi, ngokubakhuthaza, ngihamba, njengamaphupho ezinhlobonhlobo ezimnandi. " URaisa Reisen, umlingisi weMaly Theater: "Uma uNapoleon ebethwa yiNapoleon onobuqili, uJoseph wayengeke amkhohlise."
Phoenix, uzalwe kabusha emlonyeni
I-Post-revolutionary Russia ... Ku-ajenda: ukuqedwa kwazo zonke izimbungulu. Futhi kufaka phakathi imfucumfucu - i-bourgeois kunazo zonke izindawo zokukhiqiza ze-bourgeois. Izwe elisha liphefumula umusi wezimboni, ukuthuthumela okunempilo kanye nomzimba ohlanzekile. Amasosha Alubomvu Nezizwe zidinga isepha kuphela - futhi akukho lutho. Okunye okunye kuyizinsalela ze-bourgeois. Ngenxa yalokho, wonke amafrikhrifri anamakha athola izinombolo ze-ordinal futhi aphenduke ngamabhodlela ensipho. Inkampani Ralle yaba "Plant Soap State No. 4", futhi kamuva - State Soap kanye Cosmetic Factory "Svoboda". "Brokar" yaphenduka "insipho yesifundazwe nenombolo yesitshalo 5" (kamuva "ku-New Zarya"), "Siu" - efektri elithi "Bolshevik", "i-Bodlo neCo" - efayilini elithi "Dawn".
Ngesikhathi se-NEP, ukukhiqizwa kwamafutha kwaqala kabusha, kodwa ngesikhathi saseStalin kwaphela ngokushesha-akudingekile. Owesifazane onobuhle kunabo bonke be-Soviet elite, "owesifazane wesibili wase-USSR", umkaMolotov, uPolina Zhemchuzhina, wajoyina "umzabalazo" noStalin wokushisa amakhaya asekhaya. Washintsha umqondisi wokuqala we "New Dawn" A. Zvezdov, wathunyelwa kwesinye isikhundla. Kamuva, i-Pearl yayiholwa yi-trust "Fatness", ihlanganisa wonke amafrimu e-perfumery nama-cosmetics, futhi eminyakeni eminingana kamuva wamiswa njengenhloko ye-General Directorate yamakha, ama-cosmetics, umshini wokwenza izinto kanye nesobho. KwakunguPolina Zhemchuzhina owakwazi ukuphoqa uStalin ukuba angaqothule amafutha, wakwazi ukufakazela ukuthi "i-perfume iyindawo ethembisayo, inzuzo futhi iyadingeka kakhulu kubantu". Futhi waze wanxusa "ubaba wezizwe" ukuba anikeze "okuhle" kumnandi wamafutha abalulekile. Ngakho amafutha aseRussia athola okwesibili, impilo ehloniphekile.
Ngomnyaka we-1930, ukukhishwa kwamafutha eRussia - imikhiqizo enomusa nokukhiqiza - iminyango yamakha amafemu "uSvoboda" ne "Bolshevik" ithathwe yi "New Dawn". Ngakho "i-New Dawn" yathola ukukhiqizwa kwemikhiqizo yamafutha. Kwakukhona nezinye izimboni zamafutha nezimonyo emaRiphabhuliki ase-Union, kodwa azichazi "inqubomgomo ye-perfume" yeqembu.
Esikhathini samaphuzu amafrijini amafutha kwakukhona umbuzo omkhulu: kanjani ukuqinisekisa ukuthi imimoya ibonisa inqubomgomo yeqembu? Yenziwa umthetho omkhulu: ukhohlwe ngezimbali ezinkulu kanye nezithako ezingavamile. Ama-aromas ayadingeka ngabantu abasebenza, okusho ukuthi kufanele kube lula, beqondakala futhi "baqinise uthando ngo-Motherland". Abantu abaningi namuhla bayaqaphela ukuthi imimoya yenkathi yaseSoviet yayinamaqabunga futhi inzima, futhi i-pallet ephunga yayisimpofu.
Nokho, kancane kancane, isinyathelo ngesinyathelo i-perfumery yasekhaya "inqobe" izikhundla ezilahlekile. Kusukela ku-brokar "amabheji" athole amafomu okukhohliwe, "izindwangu" ezifuywayo zathathwa ukuhlolwa, indawo "ye-elite perfumery" yasungulwa. UPhoenix wazalwa kabusha emlonyeni. Ngokwemvelo, i-violin yokuqala idlalwe yi-"Dawn Dawn", imimoya yakhe yayithandwa kakhulu (kuhle, kwakungekho mncintiswano, nezigameko zangaphandle azizange zibheke nesakhamuzi saseSoviet). Le nkampani yanikeza ama-flavour yayo emibukisweni yomhlaba wonke futhi yathola imiklomelo ehloniphekile. Namuhla, inkampani edumile yamafutha - "I-Red Moscow", "Black Box", "Blue Casket", "Stone Flower" - ithengiswa njengento engavamile kumaxabiso angenangqondo. Isifunda saseRussia siphunga, kanye nanoma yiliphi ibhizinisi ngemuva kwe "Iron Curtain" ngokungabikho komncintiswano onzima. Kodwa manje kwavela elinye ukuduma - inkinga yezomnotho, ukwehla kokukhiqiza, ukuwa kwe-USSR ...
Futhi kusukela ekuqaleni
Lapho ukugeleza kwemikhiqizo yaseNtshonalanga kudonsa emakethe yasekhaya, izinkampani zaseRashiya ezikhiqiza amakha amaRussia - imikhiqizo enamakha ayikwazanga ukumelana nomncintiswano futhi iya emthunzini. Yiqiniso, ngemuva kokuwa komkhiqizo, amakhosi aseRashiya kwakudingeka aqale cishe "kusukela ekuqaleni" - ukufunda eNtshonalanga, ukukhumbula "izindlela zikagogo" futhi azame ukwakha indlela yabo emkhakheni we-perehozhennom we-perfume. Kodwa-ke, ukuvuselela amasiko okugcoba ngaphambili kunomsebenzi ongabongi. Amafomula athuthukile ikhulu leminyaka edlule futhi isekelwe kuphela kwinani elinqunyiwe lezithako zemvelo, manje seliphelile futhi "libukeka", okungenani lidala. Ama laboratories asekhaya angaphansi kweNtshonalanga ngokwemishini futhi angeke akwazi ukudala izingxenye zangempela ezihlungiwe. Ukwengeza, izitshalo eziningi ezingekho emthethweni ezikhiqiza imikhiqizo ephansi kakhulu ziye zavuthwa, futhi isibalo esikhulu sefake sibonakala. Ngenxa yalokho, umthengi waseRussia ekugcineni walahlekelwa ukuthembela emikhiqizo "yamasiko" futhi ukhetha ukusebenzisa imikhiqizo yezinkampani zaseNtshonalanga. Namuhla, amafutha asekhaya afana nengane engenangqondo. Imizamo engaqiniseki yokuthakazelisa umthengi yenziwa yi "New Dawn", noma kunalokho, ukuzalwa kwayo okulandelayo - "Newle Etoile". Amakha ama-original ngezikhathi ezithile ayesabisa ngamagama awo angabonakali. "Isikhathi Sowesifazane", "I-Mania yobusuku", "Kuhle", "I-Shaman Charming", "I-Life in the Pink", "Ngilandele Ebusuku" - izwakala njengokwedelela. Kwezinye iziqhumane, ochwepheshe bathi, "iphunga" lemimoya yaseNtshonalanga lizwakala: "I-Kuznetsk ibhuloho" ifana neClimmat esuka eLancome, "ubuhle baseRussia" - kuCoco Mademoiselle kusukela kuChanel, "U-Talisman of love" - ku-Angel by Thierry Mugler. Ukuklama kwamaphakheji namabhodlela - okuyisicefe nokungathandeki - kuncane kakhulu ekudalweni kwamanye amazwe. Yebo, futhi ukukhangisa kushiya okuningi okudingekayo. Ngamanye amazwi, uma amafemu asekhaya ekhetha ukugcina umthengi (ekugcineni futhi ama-brand angaphandle alawula okungaphezu kwama-60% emakethe yaseRussia "elimnandi" namuhla), umzabalazo ungathí sina. Nokho, "ikhulu leminyaka lesithathu" lempepho yaseRussia iqalile nje, futhi, mhlawumbe, lizophinde lifike ezindaweni eziphakeme, lapho liye lawa khona.
I-NOUVELLE ETOILE
Akuyona inkampani yangaphandle, kodwa "yethu entsha". Le nkampani iye yabambisana nabalingani baseFrance iminyaka eyishumi, futhi amakha amaningi amaningi efektri akhiwa ema laboratories aseFrance. Ukuqhubeka okuqondakalayo kwalokhu kubambisana kwakuwukuqamba kabusha inkampani.