Isinqumo sokuhamba ngezimpelasonto ePrague savuka ngokuzumayo, ngimangala ukuthi angizange ngize ngiphakamise ukuphikisa. I-Czech Republic ngakho i-Czech Republic, ngemva kwakho konke, izwe elisha - njengencwadi entsha enentshisekelo. Ngezithombe. Okumangalisayo, ngezinye izikhathi ezibuhlungu, futhi ngezinye izikhathi i-caramel-doll. Incwadi mayelana nezimfihlo eziye zakudala. Endaweni lapha lapha, mhlawumbe, kwakukhona nezindlela zokupheka ekudaleni itshe lefilosofi - kwakungelona lutho ukuthi izazi zamashemikhali, abaqashi bezinkanyezi nabasebenzisa izinkanyezi babethanda kakhulu umuzi. Abathandi nabo abalobi, bazinikela ngamakhulu namakhulu emakhasini emkhathini ongavamile we-capital yaseCzech. Ngakho-ke isinqumo sami sokuchitha isonto elilodwa kuphela nePrague sithole incazelo ejulile.
Ukuphela kokufa kwama-alchemists.
Ngokusobala, lo mnqabazane ongenhla ngaphezu kwami unguDaliborka othukuthele, ochazwe umlobi odumile uGastav Mayekin ku-novel Walpurgis Night. (Ngokuvamile wayekuthanda ukungena, ukuxuba ezindabeni zomlando zasemadolobheni ngaphandle kokuqala nokuphela, okuyinto ngokwazo, yaba yindabakwane - njengenye yezincwadi zakhe ezidume kakhulu "Golem"). Indlela yokusondela embhoshongweni oseduze - Angiyikukhumbula engqondweni yami: eMalaya Strana kunamigwaqo amaningi anesigwegwe namaqoqo angaphakathi, imigudu kanye namavesi, futhi kulula kakhulu ukulahleka. Esikhundleni seDaliborka, umgwaqo (uphinde uphakamise!) Ungiholela emgwaqeni waseZlatu. Ezikhathini zasendulo izazi zamashemikhali nabantu abangaziwayo bahlala lapha - Meyrink wabhala ngabo nabo. Ngokuvamile, angiyingxenye nezincwadi ePrague - Angiqondi lutho ngabo (konke kuwuphawu oluphawulekayo futhi oludidayo, awukwazi ukuqonda ukuthi liphi iphupho, lapho iqiniso likhona), kodwa umuzwa womuzi unamandla ngokungajwayelekile.
I-Zlata yisitaladi - hhayi ngisho nomgwaqo, kodwa ukuphela kokufa. Ngingacabanga ukuthi esikhathini esithile lapha kwakuyinto edabukisayo, emanzini, kuphela imisebe engavamile yelanga eyangena emkhatsini wamnyama phakathi kwezindlu, kanti ebusuku kuphela ukukhanya kwelanga okuzofika ekupheleni komgwaqo kungase kube yindawo ephawulekayo, ngaphandle kokukhanyisa imigwaqo. Umgwaqo waletha imicabango emibi nemifanekiso, kodwa manje kubonakala sengathi idolobhana elinabantu abakhulu: izindlu ezincane, lapho ungena khona, ugoqa ikhanda lakho, udwebe ngemibala ehlukene; izinkumbulo ezincane zifakwe emafasiteleni amancane: amathoyizi enkuni, i-harmonica, amakhadi aqhakazile kanye nezinganekwane zasePrague endala. Amanani lapha - oh-oh-oh, kodwa ungakwazi ukubukela kumnandi, ngakho ngicabanga ukuthi ngise-museum.
Ibhuloho phakathi kwamazwe amabili.
I-Charles Bridge edumile, bathi, kwaba yilapho impela imgwaqo, nakuba kunzima ukukholelwa kuyo - kuyinto encane kakhulu. Ukukhuluma kahle, ixhuma i-Old Place (i-Old Square) nezwe elincane-izifunda ezimbili ezizithandayo yizivakashi, kodwa i-aura yazo ihlukile kakhulu. Umoya onobuhle, onjengekhaya olungile, "ogwini oludala" (iphunga leshokoledi eshisayo newayini elixubile!) - nokuphakama okubandayo ngakwesobunxele, i-Malostransky. Lapho, eMadolobheni Amancane, amapulaza emabula kanye nemigodlo eqinile, isitayela sethu ngesizathu esithile esibizwa ngokuthi "i-classic classicism". Yiqiniso, lesi sitayela asikho, kodwa sinikeze kahle lokho okusemqoka. Nansi futhi idumela elidumile lokunethezeka laseSt. Witt, lapho ungathuthumela khona emthanjeni - ubusika obubandayo buvela endaweni engezansi, kusukela emathuneni. Kusuka ebhange elinye kuya kwelinye, izivakashi zidlulela i-Vltava. Emadolobheni ngamunye kukhona umgwaqo lapho wonke umuntu eya "ukubona abantu futhi abonise khona", yiba nomculi, uthenge uhlobo oluthile lwesimo sezulu noma "sezulu". UCharles Bridge uyindlela efanayo. Ngesikhathi sosuku kukhona "ukuqhuma kwezimoto" okuqhubekayo kuso, uyashaya kanzima, kodwa lapha ungakwazi ukuhlangabezana nezinhlamvu ezingavamile kakhulu. Isibonelo, indoda endala enembuzi ngentambo. AmaJapane aphethe amakhamera, ama-Italiya anezikhwama ezisekhanda emhlane, amaJalimane anezimpukane - nembuzi emhlophe. Noma uhambo oluhle olunezinhlobonhlobo ze Hare Hare Krishnas olunezwi lokukhulumisana. Bakha ngothando kakhulu ukucula izingoma zabo nokudansa ngothando ngokusuka eBrador kuya e-Old Square balandelwa yizintambo zokufuna ukwazi - futhi ngihlanganisa. Uma abantu behamba kahle, kulula kakhulu ukuba babanjwe ekujabuliseni, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi bahlangana kanjani ngokwenkolo.
Ukubuka okuvela ngezansi, umbono ovela phezulu.
AmaCzech alala embhedeni, avuke kakhulu kakhulu, futhi amaholide awahlukile. Ngifika ngehora lesishiyagalolunye ekuseni ngiseWenceslas Square, ngihamba nxazonke i-Old Place, ngidabula umfula omkhulu ePrague ngebhuloho ... Abavakashi balele ubusuku obungenalutho, futhi ngiyazi kahle umuzi. Futhi ngalolu suku olumnandi, kulo moya omusha we-frosty, ngandlela-thile uyakhuphuka ngokukhethekile ngokumangalisayo ngaphezu kwami. Ngomunye umbhoshongo, zonke iziphuzo ziyabingiswa futhi, njengokungathi, zithinta ugobe loqhinga: Mfowethu, lapha nawe sedwa - kanye ne-Vltava ekhulayo.
Ukubheka isikhungo esiseduze esiseduze ne-Old Square, kwakudingeka sikhuphuke embhoshongweni weHholo LaseDolobheni. Eqinisweni, kubo bonke abantu abavamile kuneziphakamisi, kodwa ngesinye isizathu nginqume ukuhamba ngezinyawo. Uma isikhathi eside silindile ukulinda - kakhulu i-chic umbono kusukela ngenhla. Indlu ngayinye, emigwaqweni yonke, izixuku zezivakashi, amakhishobhi kanye namasonto - konke phambi kwamehlo akho, ibalazwe elidwetshiwe lelidolobha.
Ngakusasa ekuseni. Emini izosuswa, iqhwa lizoqala ukuncibilika - ngisho nasebusika izinga lokushisa lapha lisahle liyehla ngaphansi kwezinga, futhi ngisho nalawo -10, aphuma engxenyeni yethu, ayilutho, ngakho-ke, sinenhlanhla. Nginquma ukubuka umuzi kusuka endaweni ephakeme, kuphela kusuka kolunye ugu. Ekuphumeni konke ngandlela-thile egijima futhi egijima, noma ngabe awukwazi nje ukuma futhi ume, ucabange ngokwakho, uphefumule umoya womunye umuntu, kodwa usuvele usuwedolobha elinjalo. Futhi manje usalokhu elele, umthengisi oyedwa oyedwa okhumbuza kancane kancane uhudula isiteyi sakhe ku-Old Castle Stairs. Ukuqhathanisa, ngiyabona ukuthi uhamba kanjani. Izitebhisi zinde futhi zishayekile, kodwa zikhona ukuphahlazeka kwamathanga, amakhethi ahlanzekile kahle - kufanelekile ukukhuphuka okunzima. Futhi lapha ungacabanga ukuthi emakhulwini embalwa edlule ayengekho futhi uke wadlula - ngendlela, kulula! Izitebhisi zasendlini yiyona mbono omuhle kakhulu kubathandi besikhala. Kusuka lapha ungabona umfula - enye indlela futhi enye, amabhuloho, amagquma. Akukho cishe izimoto ezihamba phambili, kodwa ngokuzumayo ihhashi enqoleni ingavela phansi. Ngezinye izikhathi ngisho nesibonakaliso somgwaqo ngezinye izikhathi siwela: "Qaphela, inqola yamahhashi!"
Ingxenye yeCzech.
Njengoba uye wahamba futhi wahlakulela isifiso, ntambama ufinyelela ku-cafe eseduzane. Kusukela emzamweni wokuqala wokubamba ukuluma, kuyacaca ukuthi udinga ukutadisha imenyu ngokucophelela: amanani aphansi ayadideka, futhi awuqapheli ukuthi uyala cishe ingulube yonke ngokwakho. "Isaladi yamaGreki isincane" Ngangihlangene kahle nama cubes ayisihlanu ushizi kanye neminqumo emihlanu - akukho sikhungo esinakho ngaphezu kwalesi sinani esingabeki, kodwa singakwazi. IziCzech ngokuvamile azicabangi imikhiqizo. Isaladi "elincane" lalayishwa ngesitsha se-salad esesisindo esihle, esivame ukugcwalisa ngaphambi kokufika kwezivakashi - lokhu kukhonza. Futhi ngakho konke. Ngakho-ke kunenzuzo kakhulu ukuya ezindaweni zokudlela eziningi nezindawo zokudlela ezincane nenkampani encane: isaladi eyodwa nesitsha esisodwa esishisayo singahlukaniswa zibe ezintathu. Futhi ufika wedwa - futhi akudingeki ukhethe noma yini, awukwazi ukudla konke. Lolubandlululo emthamo wesisu!
I-Shopaholic.
Yiqiniso, ngiya phesheya ngingena esitolo. Nginesithakazelo emlandweni, ubuciko, izakhiwo, umkhathi ... Abantu, emva kwakho konke. Kodwa ngaphambi kokuba izitolo zasePrague zingakwazi ukuma. Ngomuntu siqu, ngahlasela umculo nezincwadi. Amabhuku Yebo-ke, uma kunombhalo, ngakho-ke ngesiNgisi - kuwo wonke amabhuku amabhuku amakhulu kunomnyango okhethekile. Ngokuvamile, nansi izintandokazi zami - ama-albhamu wabathwebuli bezithombe zaseCzech. E-Czech Republic kunezithombe eziningi eziphawulekayo zama-artists, ezaziwa "ububanzi obuningi bezobuchwepheshe obuncane." Ngatshelwa ukuthi baba khona nge-intanethi. Kukhona ngendlela yabo ekhethekile, ecatshangelwayo nangothando, lokho okuhlukanisa nabo emzimbeni jikelele. Ubuciko babo bubuningi abamnyama nabamhlophe, kunezithunzi eziningi kunokukhanya, futhi umzimba wesifazane unqunu unikezwa endaweni efana ne-nostalgic njengoba amaphahla, amabhuloho kanye nezikwele zasePrague. Umzimba womuntu uboniswa ngendlela efanayo nezindonga zasendulo, izimpondo, imibhoshongo.
Futhi ngokuzumayo, ngokumelene nokwedlulele kwawo wonke lo mgomo we-halftone - i-bacchanalia yombala kusuka kuJan Saudek. Lo ngumdali ohlakaniphile ngokuphelele futhi, ekwahluleleni izinkathazo zakhe, usengumuntu we-libertine! Ama-albhamu akhe - ngaphandle kwezingqikithi ezimbalwa zendawo yonke "- noma ngandlela-thile kunzima ukungabonisi kubangani (lokhu akunakwenzeka ukuba kunikwe umama noma udade osemncane), kodwa akunakwenzeka ukukhipha umbono. Futhi kuzo zonke izinto - kuzo zonke izici ezibukekayo, kuzo zonke izinto eziyingqayizivele-into okuthiwa iCzech engaqondakali. E-intanethi, umsebenzi wakhe uhlukanisa, uhambela izingosi kanye nama-blogs ngesivinini esingacabangi. Ngokufanayo ngomculo, iPrague yidolobha labadala. Okuthandwa kakhulu lapha yiDvorak noStetana - amagugu amasiko wezwe. Imisebenzi yabo ihlanganisa amakhonsathi, okwenzeka njalo kusihlwa cishe kuwo wonke amasonto edolobha. Ngaya ezenzakalweni ezinjalo ngenjabulo, kodwa amabhentshini esonto azinzima kakhulu, emasontweni amatshe ayabanda kakhulu, futhi izivakashi ezinezinhliziyo ezinamaphiko zibeka imilenze yazo ngendlela ekhethekile emadolweni emithandazo. Kuyathakazelisa ukuthi laba bantu ekhaya, emazweni abo, baya njalo esontweni?
Esikhathini esitolo, ekukhunjweni kwedolobha, ngakhetha i-dis nge-violin yamaJuda edabukayo futhi ngezinye izikhathi kusihlwa ngibheka emifanekisweni yasePrague ngaphansi kwalezi zinhlamvu ezinemibala enemibala kanye ne-sobs.
Awukho iholidi? Iholidi liyi!
Futhi, empeleni, amaholide amakhulu? Isibonelo, Unyaka Omusha? Okumangalisa ukuthi, eCzech Republic ayigubhi. Ngisho izakhamuzi - azamukelwa ngaleyo ndlela, i-hype ebusuku ibangela ukumangala okuncane. Kodwa izakhamuzi zijabulisa yonke indlela - ngobuqotho, ngokuzwakalayo, ngokuhlukahlukene. Ngokuqondile ngoNyaka KaNcibijane kunezinketho eziningi: i-disco fashion, i-brewery yangempela ene-haystack ebhaliwe phansi kwezinyawo zayo noma i-cafe edumile lapho uFranz Kafka uqobo khona (Kafka, ngokusobala, wayengenambitheka kahle - i-cafe ayiyona inhle kakhulu). Kungenzeka futhi endaweni yokunamathela ezixukwini zokuhamba - endlini yethu encane yokubhukuda ejabulisayo, ukuthokoza kwenyuka kuze kube sekusa, ngokudlala ngemidlalo yeqhwa kanye nokuqala kweziqhumane. Ngesikhathi sendawo ngalesi sikhathi iholidi - usuku lukaSt. Sylvester (iNyanga Yonyaka Omusha). Futhi, nakanjani, uKhisimusi. Ukufika ePrague ekupheleni kukaDisemba noma ekuqaleni kukaJanuwari, uyakwazi ukujabulela ukuhlukahluka nokunethezeka kwezimakethe zikaKhisimusi. Yonke i-Old Town Square kanye ne-Wenceslas Square ende ihlotshiswe ngezikhuni zokhuni nazo zonke izinhlobo zezinto - izikhumbuzo, "iwayini elibilisiwe", amaswidi, amathoyizi, imidwebo. Abaculi badlala, amahhashi agibela - umoya wemikhosi ethandwayo uzwakala, kuphela kule ndima yabantu - "bangene eziningi" abavakashi.
O, isikhathi esengeziwe.
Mhlawumbe, lokhu kungenye yale mizi lapho ungenaso isikhathi sokwenza konke okuhleliwe. Noma ufuna nje ukuphinda ukuhamba kwakho ngokuphindaphindiwe, ufuna ukwazi kabanzi mayelana nePrague. Ngakho-ke, ngandlela-thile, ngifisa ukubuyela futhi, futhi ngokuphindaphindiwe ... Ngokwesibonelo, angikaze ngikhohlwa indlela yokuzisola ngayo isici esifihliwe se-Tyn Cathedral - sonke isikhathi kubonakala sengathi ngemuva kwesiqeshana se "caramel" sifihliwe into enkulu futhi ngokuqinisekile i-Gothic. Angazi ukuthi kukhona okuthile okukhethekile ngempela, noma bekuhlelwe kusukela ekuqaleni. I-cathedral ingadlulela ohlangothini, ungalinganisa ubukhulu bayo, ubuyele emuva ikhanda lakho, kodwa licinyiwe kakhulu phakathi kwezitaladi ezigobile ukuthi awusayikuthola isithombe esiphezulu. Ngihlala othandweni oludabukisayo lwezokuthutha kwedolobha lasePrague - abazi ukuthi yiyiphi "ihora lokushisa". Futhi kukhona imigqa emithathu kuphela yemitha. Amathangi namabhasi asebenza ngokuqondile ngesikhathi esibekiwe, futhi umzila ungafundiswa esitokisini. Ngolunye uhlangothi lwami ngifika cishe emasangweni amakhulu, futhi babemnyama kakhulu ngaphansi kwemvula enezimvula noma iqhwa elihle, bese bekhanda elangeni.
Cishe nsuku zonke, kanye namakhulu abavakashi, bema ngaphansi kwewashi elidume kakhulu lezinkanyezi - u-Orloi, futhi balinda izibalo ezibahlobisa ukuba ziqale ukuhamba. Ngehora elithile lokhu kwenzeke njalo, khona-ke isikwele samemezelwa yi-cock-crow crowing, njengophawu lokunqoba ububi-futhi bonke bebodwa. Futhi angikaze ngikwazi ukubona ukuthi kwenzekani empeleni. Ngathola umgwaqo omgwaqo omncane, futhi kuwo - i-junk esitolo esinqabileyo: izigqoko zokugqoka ama-keysholes, i-accordion engama-half-ruffled, izimpawu zasemgwaqeni zekhulu ngaphambi kokugcina, ama-grinders asekhokho kanye nama-teapots, ama-pocket watch. Kodwa izinsuku ezindala kuzodingeka ukhokhe kakhulu. Ngakho washiya, ebubula. Ngikwazi ukuhlola ingxenye yesithathu ye-zoo emangalisa, elinga ukutshela izinto ezihlukile. Ngicishe nsuku zonke ngihlala e-veranda ye-cafe enhle futhi ngidla amaqebelengwane amnandi ngezithelo ezintsha - ngamazinga ethu konke lokhu kubuhle kunikelwa ize ("zdarma" ngesiCzech), futhi umonakalo awuncane. Ngakho behlala njalo, bebuka ama-albhamu esithombe asanda kuthengwa, bekhohlwa ngomsebenzi nakho konke okuphathelene nakho konke. Futhi nokho manje ngiyakhumbula manje Prague njalo lapho ngibheka esikhwameni sami sokulahlekelwa ngokushesha - cishe cishe yonke into ishibhile kakhulu kuneyethu, futhi isikhwama, ngokufanele, senza kancane kancane. Ngabona izindawo lapho izivakashi zingahambanga khona - umbono wasePrague ovela kwelinye, ohlangothini lwezezimboni kanye nezwe, lapho "i-Lemonade Joe" eqoshwa khona. Akukwazi ukuthi ngiyakwazi yini ukubona futhi, ngoba izakhamuzi zasendlini zangasese ezizakhelene nazo zifuna ukuvala le ndima. Futhi ngiyakwazi ukuwaqonda: lolu hlobo lwe-yebo, yilokho lokho? Zonke izinhlobo zePrague! - Ngifuna ukuba ngumnikazi wedwa.