I-Calvin klein: umlando womlando

Mhlawumbe wonke ama-fashionista ahloniphayo anezingubo zakhe okungenani into eyodwa evela kumklami, okhiqiza izingubo ngaphansi kwegama elifanayo igama likaCalvin K lein. Izembatho zalesi brand zilokhu ziyisinyathelo esisodwa ngaphambi kwemikhuba yezemfashini, okuyivumela ukuba idale imodeli ngokwayo. Kodwa yiyiphi indaba ephumelelayo yalomklami ohlakaniphile? Sizokukhuluma ngalokhu kusihloko samanje "UCalvin K lein: umlando womkhiqizo."

Ngo-November 19, 1942 e-United States of America, edolobheni edumile laseNew York, wazalwa uKelvin Klein. Uyise kaKelvin wayenomnikazi wesitolo esincane. Ngibonga ngogogo, uKelvin wafunda ukugqoka umshini wokuthunga, umama wangisiza ukuba enze ukunambitheka okungenakuqondakala, bahlala beya ezitolo zokugqoka ezilungele kanye nabalingisi ndawonye. Umfana wayekhona njalo lapho ekhuluma ngezitayela nemfashini. UKelvin Klein uthi ngesikhathi e-5 ephupha ngekusasa lomklami wefashini. Ngakho-ke, wayengenayo indawo yokufunda nokuthi uzohamba kuphi isikole.

Phakathi kwalabo abaphumelele kakhulu esikoleni sase-Higher School of Art. Khona-ke ngo-1960-1962 wangena futhi wafunda e-Technological Institute of Fashion. Ngokufanayo nezifundo zakhe, uCalvin wayesebenza kule studio, lapho asiza khona ukwenza izingubo. Emva kwalokho kwakudingeka asebenze nabakhiqizi abaningi futhi abuye adwebe abadlula-ngezitaladini. Lo msebenzi wawuyinhloko kakhulu kulolu phiko, ngoba aluzange ulethe imali eningi. Izihlwa zamahhala uCalvin wayesebenze ekudaleni iphothifoliyo yakhe.

Umlando lo mkhiqizo waqala ngo-1968, lapho uKelvin nomngane wakhe omdala uBarry Schwarz behlela uCalvin Klein, Ltd eNew York. UBarry wanikeza imali, futhi uKelvin wayengeke abe nomqondo owodwa. U-Klein wenza iqoqo lakhe lokuqala futhi wanquma ukulibeka ehhotela kwelinye lezansi. Ngolunye usuku, umqondisi we-boutique, ohlala phansi phansi, wadideka izinkinobho ezise elevator futhi wafika phansi lapho amamodeli aboniswa khona. Iqoqo leKelvin lahlaba umxhwele lo mabhizinisi kangangokuthi wanquma ukubeka ngokushesha umyalelo wama-dollar ayizinkulungwane ezingu-50. U-Kelvin Klein wayesebenza ezweni lakhe, igama lakhe laziwa, ngakho-ke ukuzimela kwezinto ezibonakalayo kwavela.

U-Klein waqala umsebenzi we-studio yakhe ngokuqoqa izingubo zangaphandle zamadoda, kodwa kancane kancane wathatha isakhiwo sezingubo zabesifazane. Ngeminyaka engama-70, wavulela owesilisa isambatho somuntu wesifazane. Ngo-1970, uCalvin wakhulula isembatho esifushane esifubeni esinezintambo ezinkulu, noma okuthiwa i-PeaCoat (idayi lejazi). Lo modeli ube yizembatho ezithandwayo kakhulu kule nkathi, ngaphezu kwalokho, uye waba nemfashini eminyakeni eyishumi elandelayo.

UKelvin ngo-1973 wathola umklomelo "uKochi" ekwakheni izingubo ezihlanjululwe futhi ezigqamile. Ngakho wayengumklami wokuqala osemusha emlandweni wefashini ukuthola lo mklomelo.

Futhi ngo-1974, umklami wakhe wadala iqoqo elisha lezimpahla nezambatho. Ngokushesha, wakhathala ngokuhamba ngendlela ehlelekile, futhi uKlein wanquma ukulungisa "ukuqhuma" kokuqala, okwakumangaza kakhulu umhlaba wonke wezemfashini kanye nezimiso zokuziphatha zomphakathi zaseMelika. Ekugcineni, ngo-1978 kwabekwa uphawu lokukhishwa kwe-designer jeans, futhi lapha umklami waba ngowokuqala. Ezingubo ezicatshangwa nsuku zonke futhi ezishibhile ngokwanele, wabanikeza njengezembatho zentsha ephathekayo neyemfashini. Ukunqunywa okuhle kwakuchazwe ngokucacile ngumbalo futhi kwagxila ekugcineni ubude nobugqinsi imilenze, uphawu lweCalvin Klein ne-Omega lwafakwa esikhwameni sangemuva.

UKelvin wanquma ukwenza isikhangiso esicasulayo. Futhi-ke, ngo-1980, umklami ngosizo lomdwebi wezithombe uBruce Weber wadala iphosta yokukhangisa ye jeans neBrooke Shields, eyaba uphawu lwezocansi kanye nenkanyezi ye-movie. Khona-ke e-America kuvele ukuhlukumeza, uKlein usolwa ngokusebenzisa izingane, kanti ukudubula kuthiwa kuseduze nocansi. Ukukhipha ama jeans ekukhiqizeni, ukukhwabanisa kwaqedwa, futhi inkampani yakwazi ukubuyela kumodeli kakade e-classic kuphela ngo-1998.

Ngo-1982, uKlein wakha iqoqo elisha, elihlanganisa izingubo zangaphansi zamadoda, okwakuhlanganisa i-corset ebanzi ne-logo ye-Calvin Klein brand logo. Esikhundleni sezinhlobonhlobo zokugqoka zangaphansi zokukhangisa, i-supermodel D. West kanye no-rapper M. Mark bakhethwa, futhi isidumbu sesilisa esineqhwa-naso saba okokuqala ngenye indlela. U-Klein uphikisa ukuthi wenzelwe izingubo zangaphansi zokugqoka ukuze abantu babe ngoshukela.

Eminyakeni yama-80, umklami wagxila ekuthuthukiseni nasekukhiqizeni i-jeans kanye nezingubo zangaphansi. Ukukhangisa akudluli ngaphandle kwama-scandals, asevele abe yingxenye yesithombe somklami. U-Klein kwadingeka akhokhe imali eyizigidi zamaRandi, okwenza isonto libe yi-poster "Isidlo Sokugcina esivela eKlein." Wayenendaba eyaziwa kahle yeBhayibheli, kodwa amamodeli akhona ayeyi-jeans kanye nezidumbu ezinqunu.

Ngo-1992, uKelvin waphinde wamangala uMelika. Kulo nyaka wadala isitayela esisha selusha "unisex", kamuva okwaba ethandwa kakhulu. Ngemva kwalokho, njengesikhangiso, kwakhululwa iphosta elinekomba elincane uKate Moss nomlobi uMark Mark. Izambatho nge logo likaCalvin Klein zingathwala abantu abasha banoma yiliphi ubulili, lo mqondo wamukelwa ngempumelelo enkulu.

Ngonyaka ka-1999, umklami, okwesikhathi esiphezulu, wavusa isikhalazo esisha ngokukhangisa. U-Klein wakhipha iqoqo elisha elimelela izingubo zangaphansi zezingane, kanye nezingubo zangaphansi zangaphansi kwezingane. Izithombe nezinezingane zazibhekwa njengezingenangqondo. Ngenxa yalokho, umklami waxolisa, futhi umkhankaso wokukhangisa wamiswa kangangokuthi kwakungabikho izinsolo ezinzima.

Ibhizinisi lalisendleleni, futhi inkampani kaKlein yayingasenakulinganiswa ne-studio encane, kodwa yaba umbuso wezigidigidi, inzuzo yonyaka engaba ngu-R5 billion. Ukuthutha okulungile nokumaketha kwakha isithombe esicacile, izinhlangano zifake ngokujulile ukungena okuncane kwabathengi. Izingxabano kanye namahlazo ngezikhathi ezithile zasiza ekudaleni nokugcina isithombe sokukhangisa, isiqubulo esasikuhle, ubujamo nobulili. UKelvin Klein uthathwa njengomklami wokuqala wokugqoka abantu "kusukela enhlokweni kuya enyaweni," emaqoqweni akhe kwakukhona izingubo zangaphansi nezesekeli. Njengoba sebezimele e-USA nakwamanye amazwe aseYurophu, eminyakeni engama-90 inkampani yaqala ukuhamba ngasempumalanga, amabhulabhu avuleka eKwait, eJakarta naseHong Kong.

U-Klein washeshe wasabela ekushintsheni kwemikhuba yezwe emhlabeni, okwamsiza ukuba athole impumelelo enkulu nakakhulu. Ekuqaleni kwekhulu lama-XXI, wakha iqoqo elisha ngesitayela "sezempi". Ngokushesha umklami wakhipha i-coat-overcoat, i-trousers-knee pads, iziketi eziya emadolweni e-khaki.

Ngaphandle kokugqoka, uCalvin wakhipha ama-fragrance amaningana, okwakubandakanya kuwo wonke amafutha namaduna. Ngo-1983 kwavela "Eternity", ngo-1985 - "Obsession", futhi ngo-1986 - "Otdushina". Imimoya egcizelela isitayela esibucayi sezingubo, isengempumelelo enkulu, ngakho-ke inamafutha amaningi. Ngo-1998, kukhishwe iphunga elithi "Ukuphikisana", okwagcina lidume kakhulu, futhi libalwe kubantu ababhekana nezinkinga zabo ngokwabo.