Ingxenye 1. Ukusetshenziswa kwama-acids ku-cosmetology: i-hydroxy acids

Kukhona embonini yobuhle abantu abangathandeki uchungechunge oluthi "Ubulili Nomuzi." Ungacabanga ukuthi kungani? Manje sizoqabula kabusha inkumbulo yakho yochungechunge lwesihlanu lwesihlanu, futhi uzoqonda isizathu sokuthukuthela kwabo. Ngesikhathi uSamantha obulalayo ebhalisa emtholampilo ye-Botox injection, nodokotela omuhle wasikisela ukuhlola i-asidi yokuveza, ethi ngezwi le-velvet: "Inqubo eyodwa kuphela izokuvuselela iminyaka engu-15-20." Ngenxa yalokho, i-blonde ishiye umtholampilo ngokushisa okukhulu ebusweni. Indaba embi, hu? Phakathi naleso sikhathi, udokotela wezesayensi yezokwelapha uJeannette Graf uthi i-acids yezimonyo ngobuningi bayoba nobungane esikhumbeni - ngoba sekuvele kuhlanganiswe ngokwemvelo. Futhi izindawo zabo zihlukile kakhulu: ezinye zingcono kunanoma yiliphi i-scrub exfoliate, abanye banikeza ukukhanya, abanye baqinisa imisebenzi yokuzivikela ye-epidermis futhi bayithuthukise. Ukuze ungazitholi ngephutha ngento ehluke ngokuphelele, ngaphambi kokuba uqondise ngezinhlobo eziyisisekelo zama-acids, ngokufunwa ku-cosmetology kanye nokuzikhethela kokusetshenziswa kwazo. I-Oxyacids (i-ANA ne-VNA)
Intombazane yanamuhla nje kufanele ikhanye - kanti lezi zintombi zikhanyisa isikhumba futhi ngaphansi kwanoma yiziphi izimo zingachazwa njengezinkinga.

Kuyini amandla ama-acids
Khipha i-epidermis bese uyinika imisebe enempilo (eyimfihlakalo - ekususweni kwamangqamuzana afile), khuthaza ukukhiqizwa kwe-collagen (lapha ngokuqondene nentsha, njengoba uqonda), uthuthukise isikhukhula sesikhumba futhi uqede ukuguqulwa kwegazi, futhi wenze konke ukuqinisekisa ukuthi awusoze wahlangana induna ngokwayo.

Bangobani?
Lapha sanquma ukukhuluma ngokushesha ngezinhlobo ezimbili zama-acids: i-ANA ne-VNA. Ake ngichaze futhi ngitshele ukuthi iqembu ngalinye lifana nani. Bobabili lawa makhemikhali abhalwe nge-acids carboxylic acids futhi ahlukaniswe ngokuvumelana nesakhiwo se-molecular: alpha (ANA) ne-beta-hydroxy-acid (BHA). Nakuba, ngokubanzi, bahlukaniswa yiqiniso elilodwa: owokuqala - incwadi A, ihlunga amanzi, i-last - in fat. Futhi manje sihumusha: i-ANA-hydroxy acids isebenza kunoma yisiphi isikhumba, i-VNA-okungcono kunabo bonke bangabangane ngamafutha noma inhlanganisela.

Imisebenzi esemthethweni ye-ANA
Ubhala phansi i-asidi ekhononda e-salon: uyazi, ulinde inqubo nge-ANA-hydroxy acids. Ikhono labo eliyinhloko ukukhipha amangqamuzana afile, futhi kuye ngokuthi ukuhlushwa ukukwenza lokhu bangakwenza ngokujulile. Isibonelo, ukhilimu wezinsuku nge-ANA, ozozibamba ekhaya, usebenza ne-stratum corneum, isiqhwa sezilwane, esihlomile ngekhamera ene-asidi engu-20%, sizofinyelela kuze kube semdumeni. Kokubili esimweni sokuqala nangesibili, i-alpha-hydroxy acids cishe yilezi ezilandelayo: zisatshalaliswa phakathi kwamangqamuzana esikhumba bese zixosha amaxhubo amadala phezulu, lapho zichitheka khona ngokuphepha. Ngokuhambisana nale nqubo, lapho uxhumane nomuthi osebenzayo, amaseli ahlala ngokujulile aqala ukubonisa umsebenzi. Lokhu kusebenza nakuma fibroblasts akhiqiza i-collagen, echaphazela ubusha bakho.

Isilinganiso
Esikhathini sakho se-ANA-ukhilimu kanye nokuhlanza, ukuhlunga kwama-acids akufanele kudlule u-5-8%, ukunakekelwa kwe-salon, umbundu ungama-20%. Uma uwela ezandleni zomchwepheshe ongcono, ukucubungula kunganikeza imiphumela ekuhambeni okungafani ne-microdermabrasion: imibimbi encane iyohamba, isikhumba sizobukeka sisha. Hlala unelisekile ngomphumela, hamba ngamapelisi we-asidi njalo ezinyangeni ezintathu kuya kweziyisithupha.

Ingabe ufuna umkhiqizo ne-ANA ungadabuki? Gcina amathiphu amathathu amanye:
  1. Faka isicelo "i-asidi" esikhumbeni esomile ngokuphelele - amanzi aphelelisi umphumela walo.
  2. Zama ukuthenga ama-creams noma abahlanza kusuka ku-ANA kuma-pharmacy. Kunamathuba amaningi okuthola imikhiqizo ngokuhlushwa okuhloniphekile komuthi osebenzayo.
  3. Uhlelo oluhle lokunakekelwa ekhaya kufanele kube: ukhilimu nosuku nokuhlanza nge-ANA, nokunakekelwa kwebusuku nesohlo - ngaphandle kwabo.
Imisebenzi esemthethweni ye-VNA
Ngaphambi kwakho, ama-wrestlers amahle ane isikhumba senkinga. Lawa ma-acids anezakhiwo ze-comedonolytic neziphikisayo. Ngenxa ye-lipophilicity yabo, bangathathwa ngqo emaphoyiseni nezinwele zezinwele, lapho beqeda khona ukungcola kanye namaseli afile futhi babulale amabhaktheriya enza intukuthelo. Abameleli abadumile kakhulu kuleli qembu - i-salicylic acid ne-resorcin - ungathola ekubunjeni cishe noma yimaphi ama-makeup avela ku-acne.

Isilinganiso
Uma isikhumba sakho sihlobo olunamafutha, futhi sifinyelele ukuvuvukala, ngaphandle kokungabaza, iya kubahlanzi nge-salicylic okuqukethwe (0.5 kuya ku-2%) ne-resorcinol (1 kuya ku-3%). Ngenkinga ebonakalayo ebusweni, ama-peels ane-salicylic acid aboniswa. Yenza kuphela ku-cabin, ngoba ukuhlushwa kwezinto ezisebenzayo lapha kuzoba kubi kakhulu, kungafinyelela, futhi ngezinye izikhathi kudlule u-25%. Inkambo ejulile yinkambiso emihlanu kuya kweyishumi, kanye namaviki amabili.

Futhi ungenza kanye ngesonto wenze imaski nge-2% i-salicylic acid. Okokuqala, gcina umkhiqizo ebusweni bakho ngaphezu komzuzu bese ulahla ngalolu suku kusuka kuzikhwama nge-retinol.