I-Exomo, i-chiton, i-peplos, i-gimatiy, i-chlamys, i-hlena - onke lawa ngamagama agqoke izingubo zokuqala emlandweni wesintu. AbaseGibhithe lasendulo, amaGreki kanye neThane badonsa kahle ngendwangu elula yendwangu. Isibonelo, ngesikhathi sikaHomer, ukusika kwendwangu yamaketanga kwahlanganiswa kwesigamu ukuze umgqeni wesigcawu udlule ngakwesokunxele. Indwangu yayihlotshiswe ngomhlobiso, idonswe, ibhince. Zama ukukhiqiza okufanayo ekhaya - uzothola i-chiton yangempela.
I-ROPE, NEEDLE NE-SHEARS
Lapho izingubo zokugqoka zishintshwa yi-korenaya, abacebi baqala ukusika imikhono kanye nangaphambili nangemuva. Ekhulwini le-XIII, imikhono yaqala ukuhlukaniswa, kodwa lokho kuyamangalisa: nsuku zonke kwakudingeka bakhonze noma bahlanganise, futhi kusihlwa beba noma bakhulule - kungenjalo kwakungeke kwenzeke ukugqoka ingubo. Futhi uma nje beqamba ukugqoka, bagqoke imikhonto engxenyeni yokuzivikela "ekufeni".
Phakathi neMinyaka Ephakathi izingubo zaba yisikhathi eside, ngesitimela, umzimba omncane kakhulu, okhalweni - nje ngaphansi kwebele. Imikhono, iminyene kakhulu, iphelile ngensimbi eyayifake isithupha sesandla. Uma bekhula phansi, babehlotshiswe ngoboya noma befakwe kusuka kwendwangu. Kwakukhona ngemikhono kanye nobude bengubo abaphakanyiswa ngayo iklasi eliphakeme labanikazi bayo. Futhi bheka ubuhle obuhle, ufisa ukuthi indwangu ebhanwe yabe isho ukuthi i-uniform ishicilelwe kanjani, ijaha ingubo entsha: i-bodice ivalwe isifuba, isihlalo sinamathele ngebhande elinyene, futhi ezinkalweni i-brocade ebiza kakhulu, i-moire, i-velvet, i-satin idonswe futhi idonswe kakhulu.
Esikhathini sekhulu le-XVII umgodla wesifazane wawuqiniswe nge-corset nge-gaskets ensimbi. Ngokuziqhenya kakhulu, lesi sikhumba saba umkhonto oqinile. Ukwengeza okufingqiwe kwakuyinkimbinkimbi enkulu yokuma. Ngesikhathi leli lama liphazamiseka (eqinisweni, kaningi ngenxa yokuntuleka kwe-oksijini ngenxa ye-corset eqinile), kwakucatshangwa ukuthi kulesi sembatho, kubonakala kuhloniphekile futhi kuhle kakhulu.
Ekupheleni kweminyaka eyikhulu nesishiyagalolunye namashumi amabili ehamba phambili, uPaul Poiret wamema labesifazane ukuba baphume ekugcineni futhi bahambisane ne-corsets. Ingubo ebude yaqala ukufika emgqeni we-ankle, isikhumba sikhuliswa ngaphezu kwesihenqo, imikhonto isabanzi endaweni ye-armhole futhi iminyene emaqenjini, yafana ngokufanayo. Isifiso sokwenza izingubo ezincane ngangokunokwenzeka sasiholela ezixazululweni ezintsha zendlela yokugqoka. Ngakho-ke, isibonelo, kwenzelwe ukusika eduze ne-oblique ukuze uhambisane kahle nesibalo. Ngokuhamba kwesikhathi, abesifazane babevula imilenze nakakhulu. Ngaphezu kwalokho, emva kweMpi Yezwe Yokuqala kanye nezinguquko zomnotho, abantu baphoqeleka ukuba baphile impilo ekhuthele, lapho ubuningi bezingubo ezide bekungumkhuhlane omkhulu. Ingubo yaqala ukushiya impahla encane, futhi ukusikeka kwaqala ukubhekwa ngokucophelela nangokucophelela. Inhlabathi yombuso omusha walungiswa ...
AKUKHONA UMTHETHO, KANYE NO-GLAMOR
Eqinisweni, abesifazane babevame ukugqoka izingubo ezimnyama ezithobekile ngaphambili. Yiqiniso, kwakukhona izizathu ezikhethekile zalokhu. Ngokuvame ukulila. Noma ezinye izigqoko kwakungeyona nje ngenxa yobumpofu. Abafelokazi, abasizi bezitolo ezitolo, amantombazane asele enesizungu ... Ngandlela-thile, abazange bahlotshiswe ngokujabula. Ingabe kwakumnyama ekuboneni? Ngezinye izikhathi, yebo. Lapho iNdlovukazi uVictoria waseNgilandi isishona, izwe lonke lagibela ingubo yakhe yokulila. Kodwa-ke, ingubo ebomvu yama-fetish yaphenduka ngokuhamba kwesikhathi.
UGabrielle Chanel wakwenza njengesibonelo, ngo-1926 futhi wamemezela emphakathini ukuthi imfashini ayinakwenzeka ngaphandle kokugqoka okumnyama. Ngobusuku kwaba yinto ekhombisa ukuthi i-chic entsha, futhi cishe uphawu olufanayo lweFrance njenge-Eiffel Tower. Indwangu encane emnyama yayingeyona nje emnyama: uChanel walahlekelwa ngumthandi wakhe. Emva kwakhe, isigamu sezwe sigqoke ukulila. Imibala ejabulisayo neyedlule yomnyango oyinhloko yayikhohliwe.
Ubukeka kanjani njengobuciko bokubuciko? Izindwangu - imisipha, ukusika kwemisipha, imikhumbi emide emincane. Akukho okweqile: akukho collar, akukho izinkinobho, akukho amafolda, akukho frills. Umhlobiso kuphela umucu wamapharele entanyeni, ukunciphisa kancane kancane. UChanel uthe ngokuzethemba ukuthi ama-couturiers amaningi azi ukuthi angabheka kanjani ingubo, kepha kuphela engadala phansi. Wacabanga ukuthi ubude ngaphezu kwamadolo abuyamukeleki: amadolo akhe abonakala sengathi uyingxenye embi kakhulu emzimbeni wesifazane. Ngakho wawahlanganisa phakathi. Isambatho esisha yayingumuntu wentando yeningi ngempela. Vumela isembatho esinjalo manje kwakuyisikhathi kwanoma yimuphi owesifazane - ngisho nalowo owomholo wakhe ophansi kakhulu. Udinga nje ukugcwalisa ikhabethe lokugqoka ngesigqoko esisodwa ukuze uzizwe uphelele futhi ugqoke kahle.
Abakhiqizi abaningi baphinde bafaka eziningi zokuhlolwa ngamagqoke amancane amnyama. Konke kushintshiwe: ubude bemikhono, imidwebo yentamo, ubude beketi, i-trim. Ukudalwa kukaKoko ekuchazeni uKarl Lagerfeld kwaphenduka ingubo encane enezansi ezivulekile noma ngisho ... ingubo emhlophe. Indwangu yesikhumba evela kuDior yabuyisela lona wesifazane kuya eNkathini Ephakathi. I-Zhuvanshi zembethe ingubo ehamba nge-shawl ye-lace. U-Emanuel Ungaro wanezela isihenqo esikhulu, egcizelela isigqoko, nengubo ende ende. U-Valentino wayisondeza ngendwangu emnyama. U-Yves Saint Laurent wenza isikhalazo futhi wahlobisa ukusika isikwele ngezindebe ezikhanyayo ezimhlophe ezibucayi ngesitayela sikaSalvador Dali. Futhi i-Gaultier ingubo enkulu emnyama kakhulu ephakanyisiwe: ama-knitwear ayembozwe emzimbeni, kanti umgudu ojulile we-neckline wanyathelisa ngqo ngaphansi kwesifuba, wamtshela ngokucophelela.
Kodwa okuthakazelisayo: kuwo wonke umlando wefashini nesitayela, noma yikuphi ukuphambuka kusuka kwenguqulo yokuqala kwakunqotshwe ingubo encane ebomnyama yokungabi nalutho okuhlukile. Yaba yinto: ibhizinisi, i-cocktail, kusihlwa, kodwa yaphela ukuba yinto yonke, ngakho-ke, kwakudingeka ukutshala izimali ezintsha ukuze kugcwaliswe ikhabethe. Ngaphezu kwalokho, ngengubo eguquliwe, umnikazi wayo wayeshaya ngokungadingekile, akhumbule abanye - ukuyibeka kaningi kakade kumane kuyingozi.
Njalo isikhathi se-fashionista asikhathali "ukucaphuna" ukudalwa kweCoco. Noma yikuphi ukufanekisa ngalokhu kungenziwa ngesikhathi esheshayo. Nangu owesifazane ogqoke ijaji elula phezulu - futhi angathunyelwa ehhovisi. Wanezela isambatho ngendwangu yeboya kanye ne-brooch ngezingubo zokugqoka - ingubo yaphenduka ingubo ekhazimulayo yamaqembu. Kule nkathi, ungavumela ingubo emnyama emnyama nge-pantyhose enemibala ekhanyayo. Uma kubanda, i-turtleneck ngeminwe emide izosindiswa, kodwa impela ibe mncane nombala ohlukile. Noma ngaphezulu kwesigqoko - ikolishi yeboya ye-mating enkulu. Okukhethwa kukho okuncintisayo kungabhekwa njengokugqoka okufanayo, okugqoke izigqoko eziqinile. Ngendlela, le nkathi i-Fashion House Chanel yenza imikhono yamakamelo amathathu ibe yincinci futhi yanikeza abantu abadala ukuthi babe yinto ehlukile - igqoke elincane elibomvu, eliqhakazile kanye ne-cocky. I-Shades: utamatisi, isanqante, i-coral, i-geranium, ebomvu ethulisiwe, i-purple, burgundy ...
IZITHATHELO ZALESI SEASON
Futhi yini okufanele ugqoke usuku ngalunye? Kulobusika, izindlu eziningi ezidumile ezigqoke izingubo ezigqoke izingubo zokugqoka zine-sarafan enhle kakhulu (cishe uzothola into efana neDeha neBenetton), engasetshenziswa yizo zombili izigqoko ezimhlophe ezingenacala kanye nama-turtlenecks amahle kakhulu ama-sexy. Futhi akufanele kugqokwe hhayi kuphela kubantu abasha, kodwa kubesifazane abaneminyaka ephakathi. Kuyinto efiselekayo ukuthi i-blouse yayinekolishi elincanyana ngaphandle kwamakhonkco abukhali, ama-ruches amancane, futhi kwakunezingubo ezincane zemikhono emfushane. U-Sarafanchik kunoma yikuphi okuvumelekile ukuthi angakufaneleki ukulinganisa isibalo sakho. Konke kufanele kube okukhululekile, okukhululekile futhi okungenasiphelo ngokuphelele. Amaqoqo enkathi abuye ahlinzeke ngendwangu ebophayo entanyeni nasendlini encane ejikelezayo (Mango, La Redoute).
Uma sikhuluma ngemfashini ephezulu, i-DKNY iyayamukela isitayela sesitayela seLatini - igqoke elincane elikhanyayo elinamafutha aphezulu. UGucci wayethanda i-dress-shirt ngemidwebo ecacile, ehlotshiswe nge-sequin yesiliva, egqoka ngesiqhwa esiphakeme kanye nezinhlamvu ezibizwa nge "patchwork". UMicuca Prada unikeza imigqoqo emifushane, izingubo ezibomvu zika-satin - obomvu, obomvu, i-orange - enezigaxa ezizungezile ngesitayela sama-40 (ungamnaki i-dress yokugqoka yegolide nephunga le-Sinequanone). UFerre wabonisa izembatho zendwangu ngesitayela selineni, imibala emnyama ne-beige (cishe njengo-Anastasia ngu-S'Oliver no-Alain Manoukian). UKarl Lagerfeld uhlongoze ukusetshenziswa kwezinto eziphezulu zobuchwepheshe: amasili amnyama, isikhumba sesiliva, iziqu ze-holographic. Imibala eyamukelekayo: brown, white, isiliva, blue, blue, pink. Ngenxa yalokho - i-extravaganza ye-cosmic mood emoyeni wama-60: izambatho ezincane zensimbi ezinama-butterfly, ezigqoka uhlobo lwe-bat. Konke okushiwo ngokuqondile umlando wesitayela nesitayela ekugqoka. I-must-have accessory ibhande elibanzi eligcizelela lesi sikhumba. Kubalulekile ukubuka uMonSoon noKaren Mylen - uzobona izingubo ezifanayo.