Ukuphikisana kuka-Elsa Schiaparelli noCoco Chanel

Kwababhali-mlando bezemfashini abaningi, ukukhathazeka okuyinhloko kwe-thirties kungukungqubuzana phakathi kuka-Elsa Schiaparelli noCoco Chanel. Le mpikiswano yamakhono amabili emkhakheni wefashini uye wabamba futhi ishayisa izingqondo zabaningi.

Nakuba bobabili besifazane bephikisana ngokugcwele, babehlanganisiwe ngethalenta elihle futhi banesifiso sokuletha omusha nokuhle emfashini. Yayiyini ukuphikisana kwalaba abaklami, bekuyini isizathu sayo, njengoba kwachazwa?

U-Elsa wayengumsekeli oqinile we-surrealism, futhi uKoko wakhetha abantu abavamile. USchiaparelli wazama ukugcizelela ukuhluka komuntu siqu, amandla omoya. UChanel wagcizelela ubuhle bomzimba. Amamodeli kaGabriel ayehlukaniswa ngokuhambisana nesitayela, izindwangu zazikhethwa ngamathoni aphansi, aphansi. Amamodeli ka-Elsa ashukumisayo, ayenziwe ngezinto zokunethezeka, esebenzisa ukuhlobisa komphakathi okwesabekayo. Ngenkathi uChanel ethula i-classic suit nge izinkinobho zegolide, uSchiaparelli wanikeza izingubo ze-sari, ama-appliqués ngesimo sezilwane, izinkinobho-zemali, izintambo ezivela ezinambuzaneni zepulasitiki. Imvelaphi yayihlukile. U-Elsa Schiaparelli wayengowokubusa, umbuthano wokukhulumisana kwakhe wawuhlanganisa ubuhle baseFrance. UKoko wayeyilondoloze umndeni olula, futhi umnyango womphakathi ophakeme wawuyalelwe.

Ukuphikisana phakathi kuka-Elsa Schiaparelli noCoco Chanel ngenxa yesihloko somklami wezimfashini akuzange njalo kuhlale ngaphakathi kwezemidlalo. Thatha leli cala, okungenani. Ngesinye sezimpendulo, uGabrielle, onesizotha, wanikeza u-Elsa isitulo esasanda kudwetshwa. Ngesikhathi esifanayo, uKoko waphawula ukuthi kwakuyozuza kuphela kumbhikisho oqhakazile, odidekile. USchiaparelli akazange ahlale esesikweletu. Ngokuvamile, wabonakalisa isimo sakhe sengqondo ku-caricature yaseChanel ekudalweni kwakhe okusha.

Abadwebi befestile bahlale bekhathaniswa ngamanothi nakwamakhasimende. Ngakho kusukela kuKoko kuya ku-Elze, uJason Fellows noGala Dali bagijima. Futhi laba besifazane babeka imiyalo yabo ezindaweni ezifanayo. UGabrielle wabiza u-Elsa "umculi owenza izingubo." Kodwa akazange ayeke ukudweba imibono "yomculi" yomsebenzi wakhe. Eqoqweni likaKhanel, imibala ecacile engavamile yalowo muntu ogciniwe uvele.

Kunzima ukucacisa ukuthi ubani kulo mqhudelwano onqobile. Ngempela, akunakwenzeka ukucacisa izinga lethonya lokuthi ubuciko balabuntu obuvelele buye kwadingeka ekuthuthukiseni imfashini. Kodwa into eyodwa eqinisekile, kulezi zintathu ezithandwa kakhulu yi-Elsa Schiaparelli. Abadlali baseHollywood babethanda izingubo zakhe. Kwakuyisithombe sakhe sabantu besifazane esasithatha isikhundla samashumi angamashumi amabili. Kodwa i-Coco yaba yindlela yama-classic yesikhathi. U-Els angabuye abizwe ngokuthi umphuphi wakhe nomculi.

Kodwa ekugcineni, ukuncintisana phakathi kuka-Elsa Schiaparelli noCoco Chanel kwaphela ekubuyisaneni. U-Elsa wahamba kahle kakhulu. Ngemva kokudala iqoqo lokugcina, uSchiaparelli wathola ishadile futhi ngokukhululekile "washiya umncintiswano" kuqala. Umdlandla jikelele wezokuzinikela usuphelile. Kwafika izikhathi ezintsha, izinto ezintsha zokuzilibazisa. Futhi kanye nabo, namaqhawe amasha: Christian Dior, uCoco Chanel. Kuyinto yobuKristu ebizwa ngokuthi imbangela yokuhamba kuka-Elsa. Imicabango yakhe emisha yaphonsela bobabili izimbangi ngemuva. Futhi uSchiaparelli noKhanel baphoqeleka ukuba bathengise izindlu zabo zethempeli.

Kodwa ukuhamba kuka-Elsa akusho ukungafuni. Ubuciko bakhe buhlala emlandweni wefashini. Amamodeli akhe aphefumulela abadwebi bezithombe eziningi: uVivienne Westwood, uJean Paul Gaultier, uJohn Galliano, uBiba, uFranco Moschino. Izinto ezidalwe nguSchiaparelli zazingaphambi kwesikhathi sabo. Indalo yakhe yayimfashini emashumini amathathu, eminyakeni engamashumi amahlanu, iyasebenza namhlanje.

I-Coco Chanel yakwazi ukwenza inguquko emqondweni wezigidi. Wakhulula laba besifazane e-corsets, wanikeza abesifazane abamnyama umbala, okwenza kube yisibonakaliso sokulila, kodwa isibonakaliso sokuphakama, ukusika izinwele, ukubenza baphumule.

Ubani ophumelele ekuxabaneni kuka-Elsa Schiaparelli noma uCoco Chanel - akunakwenzeka neze ukusho. Kodwa i-Coco kuphela eyangena endabeni, kanti u-Elsa wayengazikhohlwa ngokungafanele.