Iminyaka engamashumi amathathu yatshengiswa ukulawulwa kobukhosi. Lesi samanje sokuzijabulisa sesithathwe ngabantu abaningi abadumile: uSalvador Dali, uJean Cocteau, u-André Breton. Imibono yalesi siqondiso yayihlanganisa nesifiso sokususa imigqa phakathi kokungokoqobo namaphupho, ukufisa konke okungahambisani nakho, ukuphikisa umbono womphakathi, ukungacabangi. Ukuziqhenya kwakuthola ukucatshangelwa kwezincwadi, i-cinema, ukudweba. Akuyona indima encane eyadlalwa ngokuzikhethela ngokwemvelo ye-thirties.
Indlalifa yase-Italy u-Elsa Schiaparelli waba ngumsunguli wokuzondla ngokwemvelo yama-thirties wekhulu elidlule. Kuyasihawukela, kodwa igama lakhe alikhohliwe ngokungavumelekile. Ukukhulunywa kwaleli buntu obukhanyayo nabokuqala kwenziwa kuphela mayelana negama leCoco Chanel. Nakuba abacwaningi banamuhla bathi futhi ukusiza ekuthuthukiseni imfashini kusukela ohlangothini lukaSchiaparelli kubaluleke ngaphezu kwethonya likaKhanel. Futhi kulezi zintathu kwakungekho futhi umklami wemfashini ongavamile futhi obonakalayo.
Ngokokuqala ngqa u-Elsa wamemezela ngokwakhe eminyakeni engamashumi amabili edlule. Yonke umsebenzi wentombazane yayingavamile, engeyona ejwayelekile, futhi abaningi bevusa ukushaqeka komphakathi. Ezimweni zakhe zokuqala, le ntombazane yasisebenzisa i-African motifs, imibono yabaculi beCubist, nemidwebo yezithombe zezilwandle. Ezingxenyeni zomklami kwakukhona ama-lobsters, amahange, izinyoka, imihlobiso engavamile. Wayengu-Elsa owabonisa izwe "inhlanzi yezinhlanzi". Ngokushesha uSchiaparelli wabonisa imizwa, izinto zokuzilibazisa ezazithatha empilweni yangempela. Isibonelo, emva kokuba ethathwe yizindiza, ukukhanya kwabona iqoqo elaba yisisekelo sesitayela "somshayeli". U-Elsa akazange adale izinto ezibucayi, futhi lokhu kwakungafani nakwabanye abaklami bezithombe ngaleso sikhathi. Nguye owakhuphuka nge-swimsuit ehlukanisiwe, i-skirt ehlukanisiwe, eyayiyisibonelo se-shorts yanamuhla. Esikhundleni sobucwebe, u-Elsa uphakamise ukusebenzisa ubucwebe. Nakuba indalo kaSchiaparelli futhi yabangela ukushaqeka, kodwa bajabulela ukufuna okungakaze kwenzeke ngaphambili.
Ngenxa yokuphumelela kokuqoqwa kwezimpahla zokuhlwa, umNtaliyane wakwazi ukuvula i-boutique yakhe enhliziyweni yaseParis. Izingubo ezivela eSchiaparelli zikhona. Ikakhulukazi ekufuneni kwakuyi-dress-case eyenziwe yesikhumba somnyama, esongezwa ngesikhafu, ephonswe ehlombe lakhe ngemuva kweqhwa kanye nejazi elimhlophe.
Izinkanyezi eziningi zeshashalazi kanye ne-cinema ye-thirties zakhetha izingubo ezivela ku-Elsa Schiaparelli. UMarlene Dietrich, uJoan Crawford, uGreta Garbo wayala izigqoko zakhe, ngaphezu kwalokho, hhayi kuphela izigqoko zokugqoka, kodwa futhi ugqoke ukugqoka nsuku zonke. Ngo-Elsa, inkontileka yeminyaka eminingi isayinwe ukugqoka izingubo zamafilimu aseHollywood. Futhi nomlingani ongunaphakade weSchiaparelli - Coco Chanel inkontileka enjalo yenziwa kuphela ngonyaka owodwa. I-client best of the fashion designer yase-Italy kwakuyi-Mae West. Lo mdlali wayengumfanekiso wezocansi we-thirties. Uhlamvu lwakhe oluzimele lwesibindi, ukuziphatha okucacile nokuphila komphakathi kwenza ukukhangisa okufanelekile kumalenta ka-Elsa. I-West West eyedlula kakhulu igqoke kuphela eSchiaparelli. Futhi ukuze angasisebenzisi sonke isikhathi ekufanelekeleni, wanikeza lezi zinhloso umdwebo we-plaster wesimo sakhe esimeni seVenus de Milo. Kwakuyi-silhouette esebenzisa u-Elsa ibhodlela lapho edala imimoya yakhe edumile.
Ukuqhathaniswa ngokwemvelo ngokwemidwebo yama-thirties kufinyelele phezulu. Ngalesi sikhathi, uSchiaparelli wayesevele engumlutha emibonweni yakhe futhi eqondile, eqondile futhi eqondile ... wasebenzisa ama-surtialistic motifs ekuthuthukiseni izingubo. Futhi u-Elsa wasondelana futhi wabambisana nabanqamukeli abadumile uSalvador Dali, uJean Cocteau, u-André Breton, uPablo Picasso.
Indalo yomklami kwakungewona nje imfashini, izingubo, kodwa ubuciko obuhle kakhulu. Isibonelo yisigqoko esasibukeka sengathi sabuyiselwa emuva, izingubo ngemidwebo - ama-X-rays, ingubo ngokulingisa izigqoko ze-telescopic, ama-scarves anezihloko zephephandaba mayelana no-Elsa ngokwakhe. Futhi yiziphi izesekeli ezakhelwe yona: isikhala esinjengesiphilisi zokupakisha, amagilavu anezinhlayiya eside ... Umklami wanikeza inhlanganisela engavamile yembala, ngoba wayethanda imibala ekhanyayo. Kukhona izikhathi eziningi ezihlotshaniswa ezihlanganisa imibala eluhlaza, omnqumo nobomvu. Wanikeza ukugqoka igqoko elimnyama nge-stockings ebomvu. Ijacket yombala okhohlakeleyo ohlanganiswe ne-burgundy braid. Futhi amaphethini aluhlaza abhalwe nge pink.
Ngikhuluma ngokuncintisana ngendlela ye-thirties, sisho uElsa Schiaparelli.