Isitayela se-Avant-garde siwumkhuba wemfashini, ebonakala ngobubunjwa obungavamile, ukusetshenziswa kwezesekeli ezingalindelekile. Ekuqaleni, igama elithi "avant-garde" (isiFulentshi) lisho ingxenye yamabutho emgqeni wangaphambili, umsebenzi owawuzokwephula umugqa wokuvikela wesitha. Kancane kancane leli gama laqala ukusebenza kunoma yisiphi isenzakalo esiphuthumayo sesikhathi saso.
Ekuqaleni, i-avant-gardens yazama ukuhluka ngokweqile, ngezinye izikhathi ize ifinyelele ukuphikisana okuqondile nokuphikiswa emkhakheni wezepolitiki nezenhlalakahle. Kodwa zonke izigaba zokuphila komuntu zihlobene komunye nomunye, futhi isitayela esivela esigabeni esisodwa siyohlala sidlulisela kwabanye kubheka imininingwane yabo. Lo mkhuba we-avant-garde ngokuhamba kwesikhathi ube yingxenye yenkambiso ethandwayo. Njengoba isitayela sezingubo, i-avant-garde yavela eduze kwekhulu lama-20 ekhulwini lama-20. Amathalenta amaningi atholakalayo atholakale ithuba lokuziveza ngalezi zinto eziqine kakhulu nokuziphendulela, kwakuyindlela engcono kakhulu yokukhipha umoya wakho wokuhlubuka ngokungenakulimaza. Omunye uphumelele umsebenzi ophumelelayo, omunye umuntu ongekho kakhulu, kodwa wonke umuntu, ngenxa yalesi sitayela, wakwazi ukudala umsebenzi oyingqayizivele.
Kuze kube manje, isitayela se-avant-garde sitholakala cishe kunoma yiluphi uhlobo lobuciko, abantu abasha bokudala kuzo zonke izindlela balwela ukuziveza, futhi yile isitayela sokuhlola enikeza indiza ephelele yefantasy.
Izimpawu zesitayela
Isitayela se-Avant-garde ephathekayo sinokwemvelo eziningana zezici: ukusetshenziswa nokuhlanganiswa kwezinsimbi ezingavamile nemidwebo, imilo, imigqa, imibala, ukudala ubujamo obukhulu bejometri nezinye izinto ezingezona ezejwayelekile, i-asymmetry, ukusetshenziswa kwezesekeli ezithintekayo, indlela engeyona yendabuko yokugqoka izingubo. Noma yimuphi into evamile ingasho isitayela se-avant-garde, uma senziwe kusuka kokunye okungahambisani nalokhu noma sihlanganise ngokungafani nombala we-gamut. Ezingubo ezinjalo akunakwenzeka ukulahlekelwa esixukwini, ngisho noma kuzokwenziwa ukugqoka nsuku zonke.
Isitayela ngaphambi-garde, okokuqala, ingenxa kaPeter Cardin. UPierre Cardin, omunye wabakhi bezimfashini ezinkulu emhlabeni wonke, angabhekwa ngokufanele njengokhokho walesi sitayela emhlabeni jikelele. Iqoqo lakhe eliyingqayizivele lesikhala, elalinikezelwe ekusunguleni i-satellite yomhlaba yokuqala yokusebenza, lisuke ligcwala umoya we-avant-garde. Ngokuvame kakhulu emsebenzini wakhe umklami usebenzisa indlela yokuhlola, yena, njengenoma yimuphi omunye, uphuma ukuhlanganisa ukungaqondisi. Iqoqo lakhe elimnandi libhekwa njengalesi sisekelo sesitayela se-avant-garde: imininingwane emikhulu engeyona ejwayelekile, imibala ekhanyayo, enikeza imibono emisha ezintweni ezijwayelekile - konke lokhu umklami wefashini esebenzisayo emsebenzini wakhe.
Ezweni lemfashini, kukhona cishe abadwebi bezimfashini abazobe sebesebenza kuphela ekuqondisweni kwe-avant-garde. Abakhiqizi abaningi ngezikhathi ezithile badala amaqoqo amasha asheshayo.
Abantu abadumile abakhetha isitayela se-avant-garde
U-Vivienne Westwood - omunye wabokuqala wazama lesi sitayela emisebenzini yabo emisebenzini yabo. Umsebenzi wakhe udlulile izinyathelo eziningi - ezivela ezimpikiswaneni eziphikisanayo nokuphikisana nezingqungquthela zezombangazwe eziseT-shirts kanye nama-T-shirts.
Ngenjabulo wayesebenzisa isitayela se-avant-garde noNorma Kamali (uNorma Kamali) - oyinhloko yokuhlanganiswa okungavamile kwezinto ezivamile. Wakha "ingubo yokulala" - ingxube yengubo yokugqoka nokulala, ibhulukwe eyenziwe ngendwangu ye-parachute nezinye izinto ezinhle.
Esikhathini sesitayela se-avant-garde, abadwebi bezimfashini abadumile njengoZandra Rhodes, odumile ngokugqoka izingubo ze-opera kanye neshashalashalazi, u-Issey Miyake, odumile ngemisebenzi yakhe ngenhlanganisela yesitayela saseMpumalanga nasentshonalanga, wadala uYves Saint Laurent uRaymond Clark (umdali wezingubo zokunethezeka kanye nomnikazi kaVictoria's Secret, lapho ebonisa ukuqoqwa kwakhe kwezingubo zangaphansi zangaphansi kwe-catwalk, "izingelosi" zezingubo ezinqunu), u-Gareth Pugh (umdali we-fabulously -Iqoqo elihle kakhulu s), Alex Zalewski (umdali hhayi kuphela amaqoqo okungavamile, kodwa futhi kuhlelwe imibukiso isibonisi) Tatiana Cannon (umdali "karambolskogo" avant-garde isitayela) nabanye.
Ezweni lanamuhla eliyinkimbinkimbi, imfashini ivame ukuqhubekela phambili ku-avant-garde ekufuneni kwayo ukudala okuthile okuyingqayizivele. Lesi sitayela sokugqoka ngenxa yokuthandwa kwayo kwafakwa ngisho nasencwadini yezifundo ezifundwe eSikoleni seMfashini saseSan Francisco, esinye sezikole ezihamba phambili emhlabeni wonke.
Ukusetshenziswa kwalo ekugqokeni
Isitayela se-Avant-garde akuyona yonke into, noma kunalokho kuyoshiwo, lesi sitayela asihambisani nemfashini . Kodwa kuyafaneleka kakhulu kubantu abadala, kungenzeka ukuthi bayisebenzise ngesikhathi sobusuku be-gala noma omunye umcimbi owubucayi. Izembatho ngesitayela se-avant-garde akuyona nje inqwaba yemininingwane ecacile, ithatha incazelo efihliwe eyimfihlo, eyenzelwe ukuveza umhlaba wangaphakathi womuntu.
Isitayela se-Avant-garde sisho ukusetshenziselwa izithasiselo ezihlukahlukene - lezi izesekeli, ukwakheka kanye nekhanda.
Izesekeli
Izesekeli, kanye nezingubo, zineklamo enesibindi. Zivame ukuxilongwa futhi zivame ukwenza ngezandla. Izinto ezisetshenziswa kakhulu zisebenzisa insimbi, itshe nezinkuni. Izembatho zivame ukuhlotshwa ngemicibisholo yokuqala kanye nezinkinobho. Isikhwama sikhethwe ngezitayela zobuhlanga, ezithokozelayo noma zezinkinobho, ngezinye izikhathi ukugxila kungase kuvele futhi.
Izikebhe, njengombuso, zikhombisa izitayela eziphambili kakhulu noma zenziwe ngezinto ezingezona zendabuko. Kungaba njengezicathulo ezithende, ngaphandle, noma esiteshini.
Ikhanda lezinwele, elenzelwe isitayela se-avant-garde yokugqoka, lisho futhi indiza engenamkhawulo-fantasy - kungenzeka ukuhlanganisa imibala ehlukahlukene, unikeze amafomu angacabangeki, ukuhambisana nekhanda lezinsiza ezihlukile, okubaluleke kakhulu, ukuthi alihambisani nesambatho.
Ukuzijabulisa kaningi ngaphansi kwesitayela se-avant-garde kudalwa ngokukhanyayo, kodwa kungenzeka futhi ukungabi khona kokwenza.
Isitayela se-Avant-garde - nezembatho, nokuzilungisa, nemininingwane isekelwe enkululeko ephelele yokukhetha zonke izinhlobo zokuhlanganiswa. Kodwa lokhu akuyona into edidayo yokugqoka yonke emgqeni, ngenxa yalokho, isithombe kufanele siphume kahle, kungakhathaliseki ukuthi singavamile.