Umsuka kanye nezinhlobo ze-corset


UChristian Dior wake wathi: "Ngaphandle kwe-corset, ayikho imfashini." Le nto yangasese yangasese yathola induduzo yabesifazane, ngokubuyisela ubuhle nesiphakamiso esihogweni. Kungakhathaliseki ukuthi bamhlukumeza kanjani kusukela phezulu, wayesebuya ngokuphumelelayo. Futhi ngenxa yalokho, kwakungumngane obhekene kakhulu nesigqoko sokugqoka.

Umsuka kanye nezinhlobo ze-corset. I-parody ye-corset yavela eminye iminyaka engu-4 000 edlule ngasogwini lwe-Aegean Sea. Izakhamuzi zaseKrethe zaqinisa amabhande esikhumba. Ukuze kube namandla amakhulu, amapuleti esensimbi afakwa kuwo. Amadoda afakwe ezinkembeni zezitha, abesifazane banikezwa umusa.

Esikhathini esivumayo saseSpain se-XV leminyaka yokuhlukunyezwa kwakuyisimiso sokuphila kuwo wonke umuntu. Emaphethweni omzimba wesifazane awazange akhumbule ngesono, labesifazane babebopha ngokwabo base-corsets ensimbi, isisindo sawo singafinyelela kuma-kilogram angu-25! I-carapace ye-Iron yenza isibalo ngokuphelele - asikho isifubiso sesifuba, futhi isikhumba, ngokusho kwe-proprieties, sasihlanganiswa ndawonye kwaze kwaba ngamasentimitha angu-40.

I-classic version ye-corset ivele e-Italy ngekhulu leshumi nesithupha. Yenziwe ngokhuni kanye nokufakwa kwensimbi, sekuye kwaba nenhle kakhulu futhi kunenhle kunezinsuku zakudala. Ngokuningi kakhulu ehlotshiswe nge-embroidery kanye namatshe ayigugu, i-corset yaqala ukugqoka ingubo, ibonisa ingcebo yomnikazi wayo. Ngesikhathi esifanayo, indlovukazi yaseFrance uCatherine de 'Medici yasungula izinga lokuhamba kwesigqoko sokubuya kwakhe - amasentimitha angu-13 (nje ngamamentimitha angama-33). Inkosikazi eyedlula umkhawulo osemthethweni ayikwazanga ngisho nokuvela enkantolo. Futhi uma i-corset iqinisa isisindo ngamasentimitha angaba ngu-33, kwacaca ukuthi ngaphambi kwakho - umuntu ophezulu.

Phakathi nekhulu le-XVII, i-corset yayingasaphathi kahle, kodwa igcizelela isifuba esiphakeme esikhuphukile kanye nezintambo ezizungezile. Esikhundleni sensimbi nezinkuni kwafika i-whalebone. Yayiqinisa nxazonke zomzimba, yenza isimo esihle. Ubuzwe beFrance bube yindawo yezwe eliphezulu. I-corset manje ingagqunywa kuphela yizicukuthwane. Babuye bafaka i-whim entsha - ukuqinisa uboya kuze kube usayizi olingana nokuqonda kwentamo yomthandi.

Ikhulu le-18 laliyisikhathi sokungqubuzana kokuguquguquka empilweni nasemfashini. Umuntu wesintu omkhulu uJean-Jacques Rousseau ucele ukuba abuyele esimweni esidala futhi ashiye izinto ezingokwemvelo zokugqoka. Ngethulo lokukhanyisa, iYurophu yahlushwa imfashini yezimpahla zokugqoka. Kodwa kakade ekuqaleni kwekhulu le-XIX umbuso waseFrance waphinde wazithola esihlalweni sobukhosi, wabuyisela kabusha ukunethezeka okulahlekile, futhi abesifazane baqondisa.

Kusukela ngaleso sikhathi, isilwane sesifazane sishintshe izinkomba zayo zonyaka ngamunye. Isifuba sabe sesukuma, senziwe isicaba, umzila wesigqoko wawulinganiswa, bese ubuyela endaweni. Kuxhomeke ekunqunyeni kwezingubo kanye nokuguqulwa kweso esihle sobuhle besifazane. Eminyakeni engu-70 yekhulu le-XIX, elinye uhlobo lwe-corset lwakhiwa - ubude ezinqulwini. Ukucindezela isisu esingaphansi, ifreyimu yayinamathele kangangokuthi lesi silwane sasifana nesibalo S. Kwakungekho umbuzo wokugoba noma ukudla ucezu olwengeziwe. Isinyathelo sokuqala ekuqothulweni kwe-corset kwaba ukuguqulwa kwenkosi yemfashini eParis, uPaul Poiret, ngo-1905 wabhala izingubo ezihlotsheni zezingubo zamadoda. Ngaphansi kwalezi zembatho, izinhlawulo ezikhethekile zokukhanyisa nezikhwama zenjoloba zazigqamile - "corsetts".

Ukuphakama kokugcina ekudumeni kwe-corset kwasinda eminyakeni yama-1950, lapho isitayela esisha sokubukeka, esakhiwe yi-Dior, sabuyela esimweni "esiqongweni se-wasp". Lesi siqondiso sabamba iminyaka eyishumi kuphela. Ezinganeni ze-60s ezivunguvunguzayo "ngisho ne-bra ibhekwa ngokuthi" i-harness ebhubhisa owesifazane ". I-Corset, yabonakala, ekugcineni kwaphuma ukusetshenziswa okuningi.

Kodwa konke kwashintsha futhi eminyakeni yama-1980. Isithombe sowesifazane onesigqoko esiqinile esinezinwele, ngaphambili ebonisa ukuhlanzeka nokulalela, ngokungazelelwe waba yindlela yokubonakalisa ubulili.

Kusukela ngaleso sikhathi, i-corsets ayikho imfashini. Zivele zikhona ngokufana naye, ngezikhathi ezithile zivela emathangeni.