Umthelela we-aromas emzimbeni womuntu

Iningi labantu emhlabeni wonke lisetshenzisiwe ngamakhulu eminyaka. Omunye akalokothi ashintshe okunamathiselwe kwawo, abanye, ngokuphambene, bahlale bezama ama-aromas, bewakhetha ngaphansi kwemizwelo nesithombe esisha. Kodwa-ke, bambalwa kuphela abacabangela ukuthi lezi zidalwa ezinhle zenziwe kanjani, okwenza impilo yethu ibe mnandi futhi ibe yiphunga. Umphumela wama-aromas emzimbeni womuntu yindaba epholile futhi idinga indlela yokucophelela.

Namuhla, kunanini ngaphambili, imimoya ibangele isithakazelo futhi ifinyelele izinkanuko, ngoba ngalunye usuku oludlulayo baqhubeka behluke kakhulu futhi bahlanjululwa. Amafutha kuwo wonke umuntu kanye nezinketho zakhe siqu, kusihlwa ekuseni nokuhlwa okunethezeka. IRoma yindlela yokubona umhlaba. Ngamunye wethu unamaseli ayizigidi ezingu-5 ezinhlobonhlobo (okuyiqiniso, uma kuqhathaniswa nenja enezigidi ezingu-200, okuncane), okusivumela ukuba siqonde konke okujabulisayo ngomqondo wokuhogela. Kungaba nesihawu ukungayisebenzisi. Futhi sekuyiminyaka eyizinkulungwane, isintu asizange sithintele injabulo enjalo: izinsimbi ezidakayo zokuxhumana nemimoya, ama-strong and musky aromas, ukugcoba iphunga lokufa, amakha amahle anamnandi ama-marquis ayithandayo amafutha, eyazi uthando nothando. Ikhulu leminyaka lama-20 laphenduka ama-perfume abe amakhosi eqiniso: imimoya yaqala ukwakha, njengoba nje umdwebi eveza isithombe. Abanobuhlakani kakhulu baye baqonda ubuciko obuyimfihlakalo, ngenxa yokuthi yiziphi izinongo ezingavamile, ezivela eGrass nase-iris ezivela eTuscany zaba yizinhlobonhlobo ezingapheli ze-flavour eziyingqayizivele.

Ikhala elihlakaniphile

Lo mculi kufanele abe ngumculi, umakhemikhali futhi abe nokubekezela: ukuze uhlume futhi uhlanganise flavour ezingaphezu kuka-150 nemifino engu-3000 eyenziwe ngokwenza kahle, udinga ukutadisha iminyaka eyishumi. Kuthiwani ngokuqeqeshwa kobuchwepheshe kuphela. Ithenda enye indaba. Lokhu akukwazi ukufundwa. Abaningi ababizwa ngokuthi, ama-virtuosos ambalwa abakhethiwe futhi ambalwa, amagama abo ahlotshaniswa nama-flavour adume kakhulu. Kuthatha izinyanga, futhi ngezinye izikhathi iminyaka, ukwakha ifomula yokudla. Umgomo uhlale ufana: udale ukunambitheka okuphoqelela, okungenakukhohlwa. Njengenye yezinkanyezi ezidumile "u-Eduard Rudnitska uthi," imimoya emihle yilabo obhekana nabo. " Ama-pipettes, amabhodlela ama-perfume, ama-paper scraps ukuhlola iphunga kanye ne-notebook - lawa ngamathuluzi omenzi we-perfumer ozosebenza ngaphezu kwezinyanga ukuze adlulise, ngosizo lwephunga, izindikimba ezinikezwe ukuthuthukiswa. Kuzothatha amakhulu okuhlolwa kanye nenani elikhulu lenhlanganisela ukuthola ekugcineni okudingekayo. Kuyingxube eyigugu, izingxenye zayo ezilinganiselwe ezilinganisweni ezilinganisweni zobuchwepheshe, zenze ingqikithi. Ukugxila kugxilwe amasonto ambalwa - ngalesi sikhathi ama-aroma afika emlinganisweni omunye komunye - bese ehlanjululwe ngotshwala. Isigaba se-maceration siqala, lapho i-aroma, efana newayini, evuthwa ngeziqukathi ezikhethekile, bese ikhululekile isisindo sesitshalo ngokushisa. Kuvela uketshezi lwekristallini, okuyi-bottled in vials.

Ubuntu obukhanyayo

Ngendlela, mayelana nebhodlela. Okumangalisa ukuthi, iphunga aliyona into. Ungasho nokuthi akusiyo njalo ingxabano ekunqumeni ngesikhathi sokuthenga. Okokuqala, ukusixosha ukuba sizame lezi, hhayi enye imimoya, igama elivusa iphupho noma ibhodlela elihle elifana ne-jewel. Ngakho isidingo sokuthola amagama afanele, isithombe somlingo nezinto ezikhangayo ezingabonisa "ubuntu" bephunga elisha. Ngokwesibonelo, u-Emilio Valeros, umshiseli womkhiqizo waseSpanishi uLoevve, uvame ukuqala ukudala iphunga kuphela lapho umqondo usuqalile ngokugcwele: umklamo webhodlela nomkhankaso wokukhangisa.

Izipho zemvelo

Ubuciko bokudala amakha kuqala kuqala "ikhishi" eliyisimangaliso lokuxuba izithako ezimnandi zomsuka ohlukile kakhulu, wemvelo noma owenziwe ngezakhi. Iningi lamafutha angakhethi angakhethi i-inflorescence, kodwa ama-synthesized aromas. Kuphela uKhanel, uJean Patou, uGuerlain, uDoror banemifula yabo futhi benza izimbali. Abamele abakhulu be-flora, asetshenziselwa ukwenza "i-magic elixirs": May neDamasko roses, jasmine, i-Florentine iris - ingcwecwe yangempela yamafutha. Ngempela, ukulima nokuvunwa kwalezi "sissies" kuwumsebenzi onzima, ngakho-ke izinto zokusetshenziswa zemifino ziyabiza kakhulu. Izinhlobo ezinjalo zezihlahla, okuvela kuzo ifenisha yezinto ezithakazelisayo kakhulu nezesekeli, nazo zisetshenziselwa ama-perfume. Izitshalo zitholakala emsedari yaseMoroccan, ama-rose bushes noma i-sandalwood. Ngaphandle kwe-vetiver nobhontshisi abancane, okungasetshenziselwa ukudla, ebhokisithri ye-perfumer ungathola zonke lezo zinongo ezibukhali, ezivuthayo nezivutha kakhulu ezifaka izipunga ezitsha zethu. Ngakho, i-safari, isinamoni, i-turmeric, i-vanilla, i-caraway ne-clove iqhaza ekudaleni ama-flavour amaningi angama-oriental (amber). I-ambergris efanayo yegrey yiyona "indalo" ekhethekile yamaduna amahlumela, okuthi, lapho ekhulile ama-octopus amaningi futhi ehlambalaza, alahle umkhiqizo wokugaya. Lokhu kukhanya kunamanzi kunokugeba isikhathi eside phezu kolwandle. I-ambergris ebanjwe isomile izinyanga ezimbalwa kuze kube yilapho iphunga layo elibi liyabhubha, ihlinzeka ngendlela enambitheka e-iodized. Lezi zinto zithandwa kakhulu yiziqhumane futhi zisetshenziselwa ukulungisa ama-smell of sensual quality.

Nahimichi

Izitshalo zamakhemikhali aziphikisani nemvelo, kodwa zibaxhasa, zivumela ukushintsha i-palette yama-perfume ngokungapheli. Eminyakeni eyi-100 eyedlule, iphunga lomhlaba liye lacutshungulwa ngaphezu kuka-2000 okwenziwe nge-aromatics. I-chemistry yephunga, eye yathuthuka kusukela ekuqaleni kwekhulu le-XIX, liye lafakazela ukuthi ama-flavour yokwenziwa angakhiwa ngokwemvelo ngokwayo. Uma siphunga iphunga lama-rose, sithandwa kakhulu ngephunga lama-ingredients angaphezu kuka-300, okuphakathi kwawo okuyizinothi ze-violet, i-lemon, i-anise, futhi ngezinye izikhathi i-banana ne-vanilla. Lokhu kutholakala kwenza i-perfume ivukele ezingeni elisha. Isibonelo, i-molecule nephunga lezinyosi (i-coumarin eyaziwa kakhulu) kubhontshisi yayisodwa. Izinto ezintsha ezisetshenzisiwe zivumela izindlu ze-perfume ukugwema izindleko ezinkulu: i-kilogram yemvelo yemvelo ye-jasmine ekhulile eGrasse ibiza ama-euro angu-23 000, kanti i-kilo ye-gedion (eyakhiwe ngokwenziwa, ekhona ikakhulukazi e-Eau Sauvage, i-Dior) ingama-euro angu-30. Imiphumela etholakale yaphefumulela abacwaningi ukuba benze izinto ezimnandi ezintweni ezinokushisa. Kungenzeka ukuthi omunye umuntu ucabange ukuthi kusuka kumafutha noma amalahle ungaphinda uhlaziye iphunga elimnandi njenge-aromas, i-jasmine, i-hay, i-hyacinth ngisho nama-strawberries?

Yini abesifazane abayifunayo?

Ukukhetha i-perfume, owesifazane ufuna iphunga lokuveza ubuntu bakhe futhi "ukukhuluma" kuhambisana nesithombe sakhe. Ama-flavour aseMpumalanga, isibonelo i-Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle ebuyekeziwe. I-Dior, khombisa ukuthi uyisimiso, unesithakazelo futhi ulungele owesifazane oyintandokazi yothando. Ukungaqondakali kunikezwa yi-mysterious "Oriental Gourmet" eyakhiwe emuva ngo-1992 ngu-Angel nguTherry Mugler, osengumdlandla wabalandeli bakhe abazinikele. Ukungabi namuntu nozwela kubonakala kumnandi we-lily Anais, u-Anais, uCacharel. I-perfume entsha evela ku-Escada, Ngicabanga ukuthi ngiyikhono lobuciko lomuntu ongenakulinganiswa futhi ojabule ongazishintshi yena. Iphunga elimnandi likaHerve Leger Femme elivela ku-AVON ligcwalisa umfanekiso wesifazane osomabhizinisi oshukumisayo futhi onamandla. Kodwa ukudlala nokudla okuyikho kuwukuqhutshwa kochungechunge lwezinto "ezijabulisayo" ezivela ku-Estee Lauder. Iphunga elimnandi lezithelo elimnandi Pleasures Bloom lizoletha injabulo kwezinsuku ezingakhathazeki. Kulungile, ekugcineni, zonke izintombi ziphupha ngani? Yiqiniso, ukuzwa amazwi athandekayo: "Masithathe umshado!". Iseluleko sabashushumbisi besikhathi esizayo: i-romantic kanye nephunga elimnandi elifanayo lokushada kwami ​​kusukela ku-Lanvin, kuyoba usizo olukhulu uma unquma ukwenza isipho kumthandi wakho.