Ingxenye 2. Ukusetshenziswa kwama-acids ku-cosmetology

Sekuvele kushiywe ihlobo, ilanga lanyamalala endaweni ethile ngemuva kwamafu futhi manje usasithembisa futhi ukuba sizinake ezinyangeni eziyisikhombisa noma eziyisikhombisa. Kodwa ungadangali ngenxa yalokhu! Imicabango ihle: ekugcineni ungazijabulisa ngokwakho ngezinqubo ezibandakanya ama-acids. Siyaqhubeka ukukhuluma ngokusetshenziswa kwama-acids okufanelekile kunoma yisiphi esinye isimo. I-Hyaluronic acid (HA) ne-fatty acids
Ngaphandle kwabo, noma yisiphi isikhumba sizobuna futhi siphelelwe amandla.

Kuyini amandla ama-acids
Hlanganisa i-epidermis bese uyibuyisela ukuqina.

Imisebenzi esemthethweni AT
Kumakhemikhali, i-hyaluronic acid yi-loposaccharide yezimfuyo ezivela emlonyeni wakho, ngoba wena-ingxenye yesikhumba somzimba wesikhumba sakho, ubizwa nangokuthi i-NMF futhi imelela i-Factor Moisturizing Factor. Eqinisweni, yi-ifilimu ehlanganisa i-epidermis, lapho inhlalakahle kanye nezinga lokuswakama kwalokhu kutholakala khona.

Ama-molecule we-hyaluronic acid asebenza ngokuyisisekelo semagnet: akhangwa eyedwa futhi ngaleyo ndlela agcwalise isikhumba ngomswakama. Inkathazo ukuthi ngokuguga noma ngaphansi kwethonya lezici zangaphandle, ukuhlushwa kwaleli asidi emzimbeni kuncishiswe kakhulu, bese i-epidermis ilahlekelwa ikhono layo lokuzihambisa.

Imisebenzi esemthethweni yama-fatty acids
Ifilimu ye-lipid evikela isikhumba sakho akuyona into engaphezu kokuqoqwa kwamafutha e-acids. Umzimba wabo uzenzele, futhi kuthiwa ugcwele.

Ingabe unomuzwa wokuthi isikhumba sibheka futhi singenangqondo? Udinga usizo, ongayithola ngaso sonke isikhathi kusuka kuzimonyo. Funa ama-linoleic, linolenic, gamma-linolenic nama-omega-3 fatty acids ku-creams.

Isilinganiso
Ngokuvamile, i-hyaluronka iyasiza nanoma yisiphi isikhumba, kodwa uma eyakho isomile, le asidi iyadingeka kuyo, njengamanzi kumuntu. Kodwa ngisho nakulolu cala, ukuhlushwa kwezinto ezisebenzayo ekubunjweni kokunakekela akufanele kudlule u-1%. Ama-Creams nama-fatty acids angabangane bendawo yonke. Efanelekile kuwo wonke umuntu, gcina kusuka ezifweni ezihlukahlukene, uphinde uvule isikhumba esishaywa yisimo sezulu futhi wahluleka ukukhishwa ngamakhemikhali.

Amathiphu
Uma usuvele ushintshele izidakamizwa ezindala ubudala futhi unesikhumba evamile, hlanganisa ama-creams ne-hyaluronic acid ne-retinol. I-NA-acid "izohamba" ekugcineni kuya ezingxenyeni ezijulile ze-dermis futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo izokulondoloza engozini yokuthola ukuqina nokucasula.

I-Hyaluronic acid inezinhlobo ezimbili: isisindo esiphakeme nesincane sezakhi zamangqamuzana. Kungcono uma amafomula omabili ekhona ekomidini ukhilimu wakho: khona-ke i-ejenti izogcwalisa zonke izendlalelo zesikhumba ngomswakama.

I-retinoic acid
Ingabe ufuna ukubuyisela ukuqina kwesikhumba sakho? Sebenzisa amathuba alobu buhle ngokugcwele.

Iyini amandla e-asidi?
Smoothes imibimbi futhi kuvimbela ukubukeka kwabo.

Imisebenzi esemthethweni
Ngaphambi kwakho, i-analogue yokufakelwa kwe-vitamin A iyinzuzo ye-retinoid. Kulokho okuhlonishwa yi-cosmetologists, kungenxa yokukwazi ukugqugquzela ukuhlanganiswa kwe-collagen futhi ngaleyo ndlela kuncishiswe ukujula kwamagciwane. Iqhawe lethu liphoqa i-epidermis ukuba ivuselelwe ezinsukwini zakudala (futhi ukukhula kuthatha izinsuku ezingu-28 ukuqedela umjikelezo), ayivumeli amaseli afile avala ama-pores ukuze aqoqe phezu kwesikhumba, futhi ngesikhathi esifanayo alawula ukulawula izinqubo ze-sebum.

Isilinganiso
I-acid Retinoic Net - into engavamile kanye nama-creams ekhaya atholakala ezimweni ezihlukile. Ngenhlanhla, ngokwemvelo kunemithi e-retinoid enamandla - i-vitamin A ne-retinaldehyde, engenzi imiphumela embi kakhulu. Bangezela okuthile ekunakekeleni. Ukuhlushwa okuphephile kwalezi zinto ezisebenzayo, okungesabekayo ukunikela ezandleni zabantu abangaqeqeshiwe, u-5%, ku-salons, i-cosmetologists zisebenzisa imikhiqizo nge-5-10% ye-retinol. Benza lokhu uma iklayenti ifuna ukufeza umphumela wokuvuselela obala.

Umthengi:
I-Retinol inempahla eyodwa engathandekayo - ingabangela isikhumba esomile, iqhube ukuqhuma nokubomvu, ngakho-ke uma lokhu kungukuqala kwakho nge-Vitamin A, bese ubheka into ethile ekubunjweni kwesikhumba esibucayi, ngisho noma eyakho ingekho. Uma sikhuluma ngokunakekelwa kwe-salon, emva kwalokho ubuso bubuyiselwa ezinsukwini eziyisikhombisa, ngakho-ke akuvunyelwe ukuqhuba amasiko nge-asidi ngaphezu kweyodwa njalo ngemva kwamasonto amabili. Ngakanani - kuphela i-cosmetologist engayitshela ngokukubuka.

Abesimame nabamnakekeli, abacabangi ngisho nangezinqubo nge retinol, unomphumela we-embryotoxic futhi uqiniswa ngokuphambene.

Amathiphu
Uma unqwenela ukuba uhlukane nemibono ezungeze amehlo, nge-goose ngokukhethekile, thola lokhu ukhilimu nge-retinol kule ndawo. Kodwa sidonsa - ejwayele ijwabu leso ngaphezulu umkhiqizo awusetshenzisiwe.

Ukuze i-retinol ingacasuli isikhumba, kufanele ijwayele kancane kancane. Nansi indlela. Okokuqala, sebenzisa ukhilimu onamavithamini A ubukhulu bezinhlamvu ze-sunflower ezungeze amehlo njalo ebusuku ngaphambi kokulala amasonto amabili. Isikhumba, njengoba sikhumbula, kufanele sihlanzwe. Emva kwalesi sikhathi, qala enye inkambo: ubusuku ababili usebenzisa ukhilimu, amabili - cha. Futhi ngenyanga. Khona-ke ungasebenzisa imikhiqizo ene-retinol embusweni wansuku zonke - akufanele kube khona ukucasula.

I-Koya ne-azelaic acids
Manje uyazi ukuthi ubani obangela ukunyama kwesikhumba nombala wayo ofanayo.

Iyini amandla e-asidi?
Ngokunqoba ngokuzethemba lokhu kuguqulwa, kuguqula izindawo ezibomvu neziluhlaza zesikhumba zibe ngumbala we-peach obucayi, uxazulula izinselele ze-post-acne.

Imisebenzi esemthethweni
Zifinyelela ezingxenyeni ezijulile zesikhumba, lapho ziphazamisa emsebenzini we-melanocytes - amaseli akhiqiza i-melanin. Lokhu kuphathelene nokuvimbela nokulawulwa kwamabala okudala. Lezi zinhlayiyana azibhekwa njengezicacisi ezinamandla kunabo bonke, kodwa noma kunjalo zisetshenziselwa ukulwa nazo zonke izinhlobo zokuguqulwa kwesisu - kusuka endaweni eyodwa ukusuka ekuhlahleni kwezingxube ezigcwala ubuso bonke.

Isilinganiso
Funa imikhiqizo engekho nje kokubili ama-acids, kodwa futhi nemifino ye-bleaching extracts - isibonelo i-mulberry kanye ne-licorice. Ngabo, izinto zizibonakalisa ngokuphumelela ngokwengeziwe. Kodwa ungayeki ukubuka ukuthi ukuhlushwa kwe-azelainic akudluli ku-20%, ne-kojevoy-ngakho-ke ngokuvamile i-1%.