Ngokuvamile asizithengi lezi noma ezinye imikhiqizo yezithokozi ngoba nje sisesaba ngamagama ayingxube yezingxenye zawo. Kubonakala sengathi konke okungaziwa ngempela kuthatha ingozi empilweni. Kodwa lokhu akunjalo. Ngakho, isethulo esihlokweni: ukhemikhali ezithombeni kubalulekile kuwo wonke owesifazane. Sinelungelo lokukwazi ukuthi yini esithengayo.
I-AHA (i-alpha-hydroxy acids) i-acids e-organic equkethe izitshalo nezithelo. Babhekwa njengenye yezingxenye eziphephile kakhulu zokukhishwa kwamakhemikhali, njengoba bengashisi isikhumba, kodwa kubangele ukuqhutshwa kwemvelo kwamangqamuzana abonisiwe. Ezokuhlushwa ezincane ziyingxenye yezinto eziningi ezenziwe ekhaya. Ngokuvamile, kanye ne-ANA-acids, izimonyo ziqukethe i-BHA-acids (i-beta-hydroxy acids) -salicylic acid, engafani ne-AHA ingena emapulazini futhi ikhulula amangqamuzana aqoqa ngaphakathi kwezingqimba ezibucayi.
Ama-antioxidants yizinto ezivikela amangqamuzana esikhumba emiphumeleni emibi ye-radicals yamahhala nezinye izinto ezibonakala ngenxa yempendulo ye-oxidative yemvelo emzimbeni wethu. Ama-antioxidants asemqoka asetshenziselwa izimonyo amavithamini A, C, E, izakhi zokulandelela, selenium, zinc, izitshalo ze-algae.
I-Hyaluronic acid - enye yezingxenye eziphumelelayo kakhulu ezinyangeni ze-moisturizers, isetshenziselwa kabanzi kuma-plastiki ensimbi. Ihlobene nesikhumba, njengoba kuyingxenye ebalulekile yezicubu ezixhunyiwe ze-epidermis. Unayo ikhono lokugcina ama-molecule wamanzi, kodwa ngokungafani ne-glycerin igcina ikhono layo lokunyakaza futhi ifomu "elomile".
I-Glycerin inezindawo eziyingqayizivele ukuheha nokugcina ama-molecule wamanzi. Faka isicelo kuphela nge-humidifiers, ngakho-ke akugcini nje ngokuthuthukisa isikhumba ngamanzi, kodwa futhi kuvimbela ukukhuphuka kwayo. Ezithombeni, i-molecule eyodwa yama-glycerin ama-athomu ama-molecule angama-10.
Amakhemikhali yizinto ezenza ungqimba lwesikhumba se-lipid. Vikela emithonjeni yangaphandle nokuphelelwa amandla kwamanzi. Zizigcwalisa ngokonakala komcabango wesikhumba futhi zikhulise ukuqina kwe-epidermis. Ngokuvamile esetshenziselwa izimonyo zekhanda elomile nelinamanzi kanye nemikhiqizo yezinwele.
I-Collagen - iphrotheni eyinhloko yezicubu ezixhunyiwe ze-epidermis, ibophezele ukuqina nokuqina kwesikhumba. Isetshenziswe kabanzi kumikhiqizo yokulwa nokuguga. Unomphumela omkhulu wokuvuselela, esimweni esigxile ekunciphiseni imibimbi ejulile.
I-Coenzyme iyinxenye engokwemvelo, umthombo odingekayo wamandla okwenziwe ngokuphindaphindiwe kokubili kokubili emzimbeni nasesikhumbeni. I-coenzyme iklanyelwe esibindi somuntu ngamunye, kodwa ngokukhula, ukukhiqizwa kwayo kuyancipha. E-cosmetology, i-coenzyme Q10 isetshenziselwa imithi yokulwa nokuguga.
Nanoparticles - izingxenye ezisebenzayo ezinesisindo esincane samangqamuzana, ngenxa yokuthi banekhono eliyingqayizivele lokungena kalula ezingxenyeni ezijulile ze-epidermis. Ubukhulu be-nanoparticle buhluka kusuka ku-1 kuya ku-100 nanometers, futhi i-nanometer engu-1000000000000 amamitha. I-nanoparticles yenziwe kuphela ngezindlela zokufakelwa. Futhi namuhla i-nanocosmetics iyigatsha elisha kunazo zonke lomuthi wokwenza ubuciko.
Ama-odorants ayinhlanganisela yezingxenye ezinamakha, okomsebenzi wabo ukufihla ngezinye izikhathi hhayi iphunga elimnandi kunazo zonke lemvelo. Iphunga elimnandi lenza izimonyo zikhangeleke, kodwa kufanelekile ukukhumbula ukuthi yi-iphunga elivame ukubangela ukusabela okwenziwe ngesikhumba izimonyo.
I-Parabens yindlela yokulondoloza yonke indawo eyandisa impilo yesheluli yemikhiqizo yezimonyo. Ngokwezibalo, ngezilinganiso ezahlukene zisetshenziswa ku-85% wokukhiqiza. Esikhathini esithile esidlule, ososayensi baxoxisana ngenkuthalo ngendaba yezinzuzo kanye nezingozi zegciwane lomzimba, kodwa abazange bafike eziphethweni ezingenaphutha. Noma kunjalo, lokhu kwaholela ekubukeni kwezimonyo ngezilondolozo zemvelo.
I-Provitamini yizona izakhi zangempela eziguqulwa ngamavithamini emzimbeni. I-Provitamin A yi-carotene, futhi i-provitamin B-5 i-D-panthenol.
Ama- protein amaprotheni ama-compounds aqinisa isakhiwo samaseli. Kunemvelaphi yezilwane (ubisi) noma isitshalo (ukolweni, isilikhi).
I-Retinol - isakhi sevithamini A, ivuselela ukuvuselelwa kwamaseli kanye nezinye izinqubo eziphathelene nokwenziwa komzimba esikhumbeni. It isetshenziswa njengendlela ingxenye ephumelelayo ezithombeni anti-ukuguga kanye nokwelashwa isikhumba inkinga ejwayele ukuxuba kanye induna.
I-SPF ( Ilanga Ukuvikelwa Hlunga ) - izihlungi zelanga ezakha isikrini "esikhombisayo" esikhumbeni. Ngezinga lokuvikela i-SPF ingahluka ezinyunithi ezimbili kuya kwezingu-60. I-SPF ingaba nezinhlobo ezimbili: ngokumelene nemisebe ye-UV ye-spectrum B (UVB) ne-spectrum A (UVA). Ukwakhiwa kwama-sunscreen wamanje kufanele kufaka phakathi kokubili izinhlobo ze-SPF, kuyilapho izinga lokuvikela imisebe ye-spectrum B ivame kakhulu.
I-Flavonoids yizinto eziphilayo ezithintekayo ekubalabala izithelo nemifino. Qinisekisa izitsha, uthuthukise ukwenziwa kwe-microcirculation yesikhumba, ube nomthelela wokuvimbela. Ezinye izinhlobo ze-flavonoids zinezindawo zokuvuselela, ngokuvamile zibizwa ngokuthi i-phytohormones, njengoba zifana nokuhlelwa nokusebenza nama-estrogens.
Ama-emulsifiers - okuqinisekisayo, avimbela ukukhishwa kwe-emulsion zibe izingxenye ezikhona. Zisetshenziswa ku-cosmetology ukuze zilondoloze i-compound kusuka ezintweni ezinzima ukuxuba, isibonelo, amanzi namafutha abalulekile.
Ama-enzyme angama-organic compounds akhawuleza ukusabela okwenziwa amangqamuzana esikhumba, kuhlanganise nezinqubo zokuvuselela. Ama-enzyme peelings abhekwa njengobumnene futhi abambelela kakhulu, uma ekhishwa nge-enzyme, isikhumba asilimazi neze. Ama-enzyme emvelaphi yemifino avame ukukhishwa ku-papaya ne-ananas.
Ekupheleni kwesethulo se-impromptu ku-"Chemistry in Cosmetics" Ngingathanda ukungeza ukuthi awudingi ukwesaba amagama angajwayelekile, kodwa akufanele ungazibaze nhlobo. Kungcono ukuba nobunikazi okungenani ulwazi olujwayelekile mayelana nezinxenye zezimonyo, ukwazi ithonya labo emzimbeni wakho. Futhi-ke kuyoba lula ukukhetha, futhi ukusebenza kahle kuzoba izikhathi eziningi kakhulu.